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HISTORY OF WOMEN’S FASHION & DRESS: THE CRINOLINE PERIOD C.1850-1869
Jahanara Akter
Lecturer, KCC Womens College,
Khulna, Bangladesh
Jahanara Akter
Lecturer, KCC Womens College,
Khulna, Bangladesh
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| Fig: The cage Crinoline |
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Some woman’s costumes are described in below:
1. Undergarments:
Name of costume | Fabric | Pictures of dress | Description |
a. Chemise | Cotton or linen |  | A short sleeve, knee length garments, short and full; without much decoration. |
b. Drawers | Cotton, linen or flannel |  | Knee length drawers were trimmed at edges with tucking, lace or embroidery. In winter some women wore colored, flannel drawers for warmth. |
c. Camisole | Cotton or linen |  | This waist length a garment was shaped to figure had short sleeve and buttoned down the front. |
d. Corset |  | Women were shaped with gores of fabric and inset gussets of elastic. After the introduction of the crinoline, corset shorted, when the crinoline declined, corsets become tighter. | |
e. Hoop (cage crinoline) | cotton |  | Steel hoops were sewn onto tapes or fabric skirt. Shapes varied with changes in the fashionable silhouette: 1850s round, 1860s flatter in front and fuller at the back. |
f. Petticoats | cotton, flannel |  | A single petticoat decorated with lace, embroidery, or small tucks was placed over the hoop. Additional layers, flannel petticoat worn in winter. |
2. Day Time Dresses:
Some woman’s day time costumes are described in below:
a. Bodice:
Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.
Description: Bodice shaping was often achieved through curved seams in back, darts in front. Armholes were placed low on the arm. It is attached by button or hocks.
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| Fig: Women´s Bodice |
Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.
Description: Neck lines were high, without attached collars and usually finished in bias piping. Removable, washable collars (and cuff) were usually worn with daytime dresses.
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| Neckline |
Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.
Description: Most common sleeve styles they were use such as: bell-shaped, pagoda shaped, double-ruffles, close sleeve, men’s coat sleeve etc.
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| Sleeves |
Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.
Description: Separate blouses were worn with skirts. The Red Garibaldi Blouse was especially popular in the 1860s.
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| Blouses |
e. Skirts:
Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.
Description: In1860s skirts were pyramid shaped.
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| Fig: Doam and Pyramid shaped Skirt in 1860s |
a. Neckline:
Fabric: Different types of fabric are used.
Description: Different in dresses worn for evening. In the evening time they also wore daytime dresses. Most evening dresses had “off the shoulder” neckline, either straight across or with a dip at the center.
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| Fig: Off The Shoulder Evening dress for women |
Fabric: Different types of fabric are used.
Description: They use short sleeve, straight sleeve and sleeveless dress.
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| Sleeve |
Fabric: Different types of fabric are used.
Description: Double skirts might have decorative effect created by looping or puffing up the outer layer. Skirts were trimmed with artificial flowers, ribbons, rosettes or lace.
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| Fig: Skirts were trimmed with artificial flower |
Sleeve: Sleeved, fitted and unfitted coats of varying lengths.
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| Sleeve |
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| Mantle |
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| Pic: Shawl mantle from 1869 |
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| Talma-mantle |
Hair: Women generally parted their hair in the center and drew it over the ears smoothly or in waves or plaits back of the head.
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| Pic: Women’s hair style in 1851,1860 |
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| Pic: Day cap or Indoor cap, 1866 and Bonnet, 1850. |
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| Pic: Women’s hat in 1867, bonnet in 1864, Snood in 1864. |
a. Stockings: A stocking (also known as hose, especially in a historical context) is a close-fitting, variously elastic garment covering the foot and lower part of the leg. Stockings vary in color, design and transparency. These were made of cotton or silk, with white the preferred color, but colored and plaid stocking were also worn. These were made of cotton or silk, with white the preferred color, but colored and plaid stocking were also worn.
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| Stockings |
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| Shoes |
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| Boots |
a. Gloves: Generally gloves were short and fitted for daytime. In the 1860s gloves were long and elbow length, were worn with evening dress.
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| Gloves |
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| Cuffs |
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| Hand carried accessories |
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| Jewelry |
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| Cosmetics |
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