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Techniques of Warp Yarn Sizing

Saturday 28 September 2013

Techniques of Warp Sizing

Subrata Majumder
Department of Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University
Email: eng.smder@yahoo.com
Contact: +8801710541657 




Introduction of Sizing:
Sizing is the process of applying protective adhesive coating on the yarn surface. This is the most important segment of weaving preparatory process. The old adage that sizing is the heart of weaving still holds good today. This statement is all the more important in today’s environment when loom speeds have increased tenfold from those used in shuttle looms. The weaving process depends upon a complexity of factors which include the material characteristics, the sizing ingredients, the sizing operation, and the yarn parameters.

Techniques of Warp Yarn Sizing:
Sizing machine can be classified according to the method of drying as follows:

Conventional Aqueous Sizing:
Double Cylinder Sizing: This consists of only two drying cylinder or two sow box arrangement which leads to more energy consumption.

Multi Cylinder Sizing: This consists of more than one sow box and several groups of drying cylinders. This is suitable for densely spaced yarns. Warp yarns are dried separately by separate drying arrangement. This is also suitable for dyeing and sizing together resulting in saving of wastes.
Fig - 1: Conventional Sizing Machine
Non-Conventional Sizing:
Dry Sizing: This is carried out by spraying dry size powder on the warp sheet and the size powder is thought to be fixed in the warp yarn due to electrostatic force of attraction. This process ensures the reduction of cost of raw material and reduction of pollution.

Solvent Sizing: Sizing is accomplished by using a non-aqueous organic solvent as the treatment media instead of water. Chlorinated hydrogen is mostly used as solvent and 1/10 th of energy is required to evaporate solvent.

Hot melt Sizing: Suitable for high speed weaving e.g. shuttle fewer looms where there is risk of yarn hairiness. Sizing is done in the warping machine by having a special arrangement called size applicator. The size is kept in cake form where the warp is kept pressed.

Foam Sizing: Here the solvent is replaced by water. Foam of size is used which must possess liquor, a gas, mechanical energy and thermal energy. Thus 70% energy is saved and production is increased.

Blend Sizing: Manmade fibers are more sensitive to heat and tension. However successful size will result better performance than 100% cotton. In order to perform well blend sizing needs both machinery as well as operational requirements.
Fig - 2: Non-Conventional Sizing Machine

Electrospinning Technology | Properties of Electrospun Nanofibers

Wednesday 25 September 2013

Electrospinning Technology:
Electrospinning technology has been known since twentieth century. Electrospinning is an old but yet immature process which is now used to form nanoscale polymer fibers. It is a relatively simple method to produce submicron fibers from solutions of different polymers and polymer blends. Electrospinning uses an electrical charge to draw very fine fibres from a liquid. Electrospinning shares characteristics of both electrospraying and conventional solution dry spinning of fibers. We can say electrospinning is an established method of producing nano-fibers from a wide variety of natural and synthetic polymers.
Schematic diagram of eletrospinning set-up
Conventional fiber spinning techniques such as wet spinning, dry spinning, melt spinning and gel spinning usually produce polymer fibers with diameters down to the micrometer range. If the fiber diameter is reduced from micrometers to nanometers, very large surface area to volume ratios are obtained and flexibility in surface functionalities and better mechanical performance may be achieved.

Because of the small pore size and high surface area inherent in electrospun textiles, these fabrics show promise for use in protective clothing for soldiers filtration applications, membranes, reinforcing fibers in composite materials, optical and electronic applications, biomedical devices (cosmetics, skin healing and skin cleansing, wound dressing, drug delivery and pharmaceuticals, supports for enzymes or catalysts, scaffolds for tissue engineering, and templates for the formation of hollow fibers with inner diameters in the nanometer range.

Properties of Electrospun Nanofibers:
Two forms of electrospun nano fibers were produced by normal and aligned electrospinning methods. The randomly aligned fiber mats were collected on a large, flat, grounded target, while the aligned fibers were created by parallel collecting electrodes. Electron microscopy was used to illustrate the morphology of the electrospun fibers. The results showed that higher concentration could produce larger fibers due to more polymer chains and chain entanglements.

It is difficult to measure mechanical properties of each electrospun single nanofiber with existing test techniques, because of their very small diameters. Therefore, mechanical tests were performed instead on nano-scale nonwoven webs with conventional testing methods. Mechanical properties of electrospun PU nanowebs were investigated by Pedicini and Farris.

Among the many electrospun polymers reported in the literature are poly (p-phenylene terephthalamide), tri-block copolymers, polyethylene oxide and DNA from solution; and polyethylene and polypropylene from the melt. Nylon was the first commercialized synthetic fiber and is used throughout the world in many applications. It has been widely used as an important engineering plastic and synthetic fiber because of its good mechanical properties. It has been produced by traditional methods such as melt, wet and dry spinning and is available in staple, tow, monofilament and multifilament forms. Fiber diameters produced by these methods range from 10 to 500 Âµm.

Nylon-6,6 (N6,6), polybenzimidazole (PBI) and poly (tetrafluoroethylene) membranes produced from electrospun fibers as protective layers. Properties of these electrospun membranes, including structural effects upon moisture transport, air convection, aerosol filtration, porosity and tensile strength. N6, the polymer crystalline structure was altered from α to γ form when electrospun.

The ability of the electrospinning process to produce the γ form implies that the fibers are under high stress when they are being formed. Nylon-12 has only one preferred conformation, and the chain conformation is conserved after processing.

Mechanical properties of two widely different molecular weight electrospun N6,6 nanowebs are compared by using conventional test methods. The main objective of this part of the study was to determine whether the use of high molecular weight N6,6 is a viable approach to improve the mechanical properties of electrospun nylon filaments.

Reference:
  1. Nanofibers and nanotechnology in textiles Edited by P. J. Brown and K. Stevens
  2. Filtration Properties of Electrospinning Nanofibers, Xiao-Hong Qin, Shan-Yuan Wang
  3. Mechanical and Physical Properties of Electrospun Nanofibers, ZHANG SHU.
  4. Functional Applications of Electrospun Nanofibers
  5. Jian Fang, Xungai Wang, and Tong Lin
  6. www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrospinning 
 

Calculation of Sewing Thread Consumption for Garments

Friday 20 September 2013

Sewing Thread Consumption Formula
Noor Ahmed Raaz
B.Sc. in Apparel Manufacturing
Asst. Merchandiser
Opex Sinha Group, Narayongonj
Email: raju.uttara72@yahoo.com



Sewing Thread Consumption
For Apparel Merchandising, in today’s competitive marketplace, there is a need for tight cost control. A realistic estimation of potential thread requirements for particular garment styles or contracts will not only end up saving money, and warehouse maintenance. As, if you buy sewing threads more than you require that will be a matter of extra warehouse maintenance. To understand sewing thread consumption we also need to understand the Seam and Stitch analysis.
Sewing thread
It’s basic rule in garment industry that we must have knowledge how to calculate sewing thread consumption in 1 pcs garment then decide how many sewing thread we must buy for bulk production process.

For determining thread consumption there is a standard formula. In that formula you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and stitching classes. To define thread consumption you just have to multiply seam length with that factors. Thus, one can estimate total requirement of thread for making a garments. But actual thread consumption for a unit length of seam depends on many factors.

Likes,
  1. Stitches per inches (SPI) 
  2. Stitch Classes
  3. Thickness of the seam (fabric thickness)
  4. Thread tension
  5. Thread count (thickness of sewing thread)
We should follow when calculate it with below steps :
  1. Measure the actual thread consumed in a specific length of seam along the garments.
  2. Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematic stitch formulas based on seam characters ( example : single stich, double stitch, chainstitch, overlock, etc ) also please take attentions in thickness of thread.
  3. Then convert it with total yardage contained in one cones of sewing thread & total quantity of garments.
Measuring Actual Thread Consumed
A specified length of the seam, for example 3 inches, is measured and then the thread is removed by carefully unraveling the stitch. You can then calculate the amount of thread consumed in one inch and multiply this factor times the total length of the seam measured in inches.

For example:
  • Length of seam is 42 inches or 1.17 yards.
  • Stitch and seam construction: 401 SSa-1.
  • Specified length of thread removed from a seam equals 3 inches.
  • Needle thread removed = 9 inches
  • Looper thread removed = 8 inches
Calculation:
  • Needle thread factor = 9 ÷ 3 = 3 inches of needle thread per inch of seam.
  • Looper thread factor = 8 ÷ 3 = 2.67 inches of looper thread per inch of seam.
  • Total needle thread consumed = factor 3 X 1.17yds = 3.51 yds
  • Total looper thread consumed = factor 2.67 X 1.17yds = 3.12 yds
  • Total Thread = 3.51 + 3.12 = 6.63 yards per seam.
  • Generally a 10 to 15% waste factor is added due to chaining-off, thread breaks, repairs, etc.
  • If a waste factor of 15% is selected then:
  • 6.63 yards/seam X 1.15 = 7.62 yards/seam including 15% waste factor.
Obviously you must do this for each seam to determine the total amount of thread consumed in the finished product.

List of Chemicals Used in Garment Washing

STUDY ON CHEMICALS USED IN GARMENTS WASHING

Maruf Mahfuz
Department of Textile Engineering
World University of Bangladesh
Email: maruf.txt@gmail.com
Cell: 01738676060




Introduction
In garments washing there are a lot of chemicals are used in various purposes. These chemicals are available in market by their own name or trade names introduced by distinguish chemical manufacturing company. The main aim is to find out the function of the different chemicals which are strongly related to the garments washing. 


1. Chemical names which are used in washing plant
  • Enzyme
  • Acetic acid [CH3-COOH]
  • Detergent
  • Ant staining agent
  • Bleaching powder [ Ca (OCl) CL]
  • Sodium hyposulfite [Na2S2O2]
  • Caustic soda [NaOH]
  • Soda ash [Na2CO3]
  • Sodium bicarbonate [NaHCO3]
  • Potassium permanganate [KMnO4]
  • Cationic/ nonionic flax softener
  • Micro emulsion silicon
  • Salt
  • Buffer
  • Hydrogen peroxide [H202]
  • Stabilizer
  • Fixing agent
  • Optical brightener
  • Resin
2. Function of washing chemicals
2.1 Anti-staining Agent
A mixture of special macromolecules and surfactants, especially for anti-back staining during desizing and washing in denim rinsing. The basic problem in enzymatic washing of denim is back- staining of detached indigo dyes on fabric surface. Hence, it reduces the contrast effect/fading effect, which garment washer want to produce on denim.

Figure: Garments Anti staining agent
  • FOB Price: US $1.4-1.8 / Kilogram
  • Appearance: pale yellow flow liquid
  • Ion: nonionic
  • Solubility: soluble in cold and hot water…
  • Classification: Chemical Auxiliary Agent

Characteristics and advantage: 
  1. Has good emulsifying, dispersing and absorbing ability for indigo dyes, can revent indigo back staining and improve color contrast and fabric brilliance.
  2. Can improve color fastness after stone washing.
  3. Be used with enzyme or used general washing process, improve effect of washing.
  4. Be high concentrated, dilute it before using, stable diluted solution, easily used.
2.2. Potassium Permanganate

Fig: potassium permanganate
FOB Price: US $1000-2000 / Metric Ton

Origin: China

After desizing it is sprayed in garments area, It helps for color out from garment during Enzyme wash. Potassium permanganate (KMno4 + H3Po4 + H2O) solution applied or stray on the garments so oxidizes the cellulose & color is partially removed according to the intensity & solution.

The process of acid washing jeans used chemicals, stripping off the color of the top layer, leaving the white fabric exposed. The color remained in the lower layers of the material, giving it a faded look. Acid washing could be done overall or made to look splotchy treated with potassium permanganate.


Any time we mess with chemicals such as bleach or chlorine or PP, be sure to protect workers by wearing mask & aprons, so it is best to be fully prepared. Also, protective rubber gloves and safety glasses are highly recommended. These products can burn skin and eyes pretty badly

  • After PP Spray & PP Sponging need to neutralize the garment per sodium metasulphite, then whitish effect come on respective area of garments.
  • Stock solution is 5% i.e. 40 liter water 200 gm. potassium permanganate & phosphoric acid.
  • PP Spray is done by nozzle and has a switch to start & stop.
  • For Spray on garments need dry air which is supplied from screw compressor and PP stock solution tank.
  • PP Sponging is done manually.
  • By foam / fabric pcs wet in PP stock solution and rubbing particular area of garment by hand as a result fading effects on garments.
2.3.Caustic soda (NaOH)
Caustic soda is a deliquescent white crystalline solid, which readily absorbs moisture and carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. It is used for mercerizing cotton.


FOB Price: US $510-520 / Metric Ton

2.3.1. Function of caustic soda
  • Caustic is the strong alkali used in garments washing to introduce an alkaline condition.
  • Caustic created the role in bleach technique without color change the garments.
  • Caustic has a cleaning power which is more powerful than soda Ash.
  • Fading affect/old looking affect come rapidly on garments by the action of caustic soda.
2.4. SODA ASH (Na2Co3)
Sodium carbonate is a white crystalline solid containing water of crystallization. It is used in laundry as washing soda. It is also used for softening water.

FOB Price: US $190-195 / Metric Ton

Figure: Soda ash
2.4.1. Function of soda ash
  • Soda ash created alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye.
  • It has a cleaning power.
  • It has also help color fading effect of garments.
2.5. Detergent
Detergent is used to remove impurities from the Garment fabric surfaces and temperature helps detergent to enhance its action. During coming these impurities, some pigment will be washed out from the pigment dyed or printed area of the garments. As a result fading affect will be developed.

The simplest way to inactivate any detergents left in the fabric is to neutralize the pH to between 6.5 and 7.5 through addition of a small amount of acetic acid. Through this method, the activity of the alkali and surfactants is eliminated.

For fabrics with a high content of synthetic fibers it may be necessary to add small amounts of cationic surfactants that can neutralize the charges of anionic surfactants and thus prevent static electricity. Using non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants normally makes such additions unnecessary.4 

Sometimes the fabric softeners also include small amounts of perfume to provide a pleasant scent.4 

FOB Price: US $1-2 / Piece

Place of Origin: CN;ZHE ; Brand Name

Figure: Detergent powder
2.5.1. Powder Detergent
  • FOB Price: US $450-1350 / Metric Ton
  • Package: 1kg
  • Type: Detergent in powder form
2.5.2. Liquid detergent
  • FOB Price: US $1-2 / Piece
2.5.3. Super-cleaning fragrant washing powder
  • FOB Price: US $350-700 / Metric Ton 
  • Super-cleaning fragrant washing powder this powder contains a super cleaning gene that dissolves easily and is soft on garments…
  • Type: Detergent
2.6. Acetic Acid (CH3COOH)
Acetic acid is a colorless and corrosive liquid with pungent smell of its own. It is miscible with water, alcohol and ether in all proportions. Acetic acid is used in garment industry for dyeing purposes.

Acetic acid is a weak organic acid - the key ingredient in vinegar. It is readily degradable and has no adverse effects in the environment except for the use of oxygen for degradation. It is also readily degradable under anaerobic conditions.4 

FOB Price: US $800-810 / Ton

2.6.1. Function of acetic acid
  • Acetic Acid is used to neutralize the garment from alkaline condition and to control the pH value in wash bath.
  • Acetic acid is not a fabric softener in principle but is often used for this purpose in professional laundries.4 
  • Acetic Acid is used in Enzyme bath
  • Acetic acid has to be stored and handled with care
2.7. Sodium Meta Bisulfite
Sodium metabisulfite is an inorganic compound composed of sodium, sulfur and oxygen. Its chemical formula is Na2S2O5 . It typically comes in a white, or yellowish-white crystalline powder. It easily dissolves in water, which leaves that familiar sulfur (rotten egg) smell.


FOB Price: US $300-350 / Metric Ton

2.7.1. Function of sodium Meta bi sulphite
  • Sodium metabisulfite is used as a bleaching agent in pulp and textile manufacture, as well as a reducing agent .
  • Sodium metabisulphite is used in the washing plant to neutralized the garment from potassium permanganate.
2.8. Pumic stone

Figure: Pumice stone
FOB Price: US $0.1-0.5 / Piece

2.8.1. Properties of pumice stone
  • When the impurities amount will be 10% of a pumic stone its density increases to 1 gm/cm3. Then the stone will not float.
  • Alternative of pumic stone: SYNTHETIC STONE
  • Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1 
  • Dia.of stone-1-7 cm
  • Moisture content-less than 5%
  • Surface properties-less than 5% fines
  • Apparent Density-0.5-0.75gm/cm3 
  • Abrasion loss-35%
  • Large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only.
  • Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate items.
2.9. Softener
2.9.1. Function of softener
  • The purpose of adding ‘fabric softeners’ at the end of the washing process is to neutralise the very small amounts of detergents left in the textiles and thus prevent static electricity.4 
  • Another main function of the softener is creating softer handle over the garments, it is obtained because when softener is applied on the garments then the each and every treads tends to slip over another.
  • Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles is surface feel that is bath sickly and soft and also provides excellent lubricating properties.


FOB Price: US $1-5 / Kilogram;

Name: China mainland11 

2.10. Enzyme
The trend today is towards garment processing. This is because garment processing offers the processor better and more varied opportunities to add value to the garments in terms of fashionable looks as well as feel. In such a fast changing scenario, Enzymes are playing an important role.

2.10.1 Functions of Enzyme
  • Residual hydrogen peroxide must be removed from the fabric after bleaching treatments, which would otherwise be detrimental to subsequent processing. Catalayse enzymes can be used to work specifically on residual peroxide as an anti-oxidant breaking it down into natural elements of water and oxygen without adversely affecting the fibres or dyes.
  • Develop ‘’Bio-polishing’’ effect on denim in echo-friendly way
  • Enzyme improves the ‘’Anti-pilling’’ properties.
  • It attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.
  • It increases the color fastness and rubbing fastness properties.
  • Achieve high-low abrasion to produce fading effect in sewing area. 2 
  • It just hydrolysis the cellulose, first it attacks the projecting fiber then the yarn portion inside fabric and faded affect is produced.
  • It reduces GSM of the garment.
  • Neutral enzyme is used for Dark shade enzyme wash because it comes fading effect slowly.
  • It produces buyer loving soft feel in use.
  • Acid enzyme is used for medium /light shade Enzyme wash of denim skirt because it comes enzyme effect quickly than neutral enzyme.
2.10.2. Name: Textile Enzyme for Jean N1000
  • FOB Price: US $3.5-4.0 / Kilogram
2.10.3. Neutral cellulase
  • FOB Price: US $1-10 / Kilogram
  • Type: Liquid Cellulase Enzyme
2.10.4. Bio polish Enzyme for T shirt


FOB Price: US $1.45-1.50 / Kilogram
  1. High and stable activity
  2. PH: 4.5-6.0 
  3. Reducing fuzzy and pilling
  4. Dosage: 0.3-0.5g/L…
Classification: Chemical Auxiliary Agent

2.10.5.Cellulose Enzyme
FOB Price: US $10-30 / Kilogram

2.11. Bleaching Powder
Color is produced by molecules which contain chromophores and bleach works upon these molecules to achieve the whitening effect. Oxidizing bleach breaks down the molecules with chromophores and make them incapable of absorbing any visible light, while reducing bleach converts the double-bonded chromophore to single-bonded, thus making them incapable of absorbing visible light. The same principle is behind the bleaching action of sunlight. The high energy photons of light affects the bonds of chromophores, which in turn results in the gradual fading of color .9 

FOB Price: US $300-320 / Metric Ton


2.11.1. Bleaching Clothes in Washing Machine
Bleach helps white clothes to retain their original color time and again. Knowing exactly how the bleach works and what are its active ingredients is very useful. When it comes to bleaching clothes white, there are many things that must be considered, first and foremost is the safety. Bleach can cause harm equally to both clothes and your hands. If chlorine bleaches are combined with ammonia and such chemicals, then that can cause extremely harmful and toxic effects. Hence, to avoid side effects of bleach on your hands, you can start doing it in the washing machine.


There are two basic types of bleaches, namely chlorine bleach and non-chlorine bleach and both are equally good. It is important to make sure that the color and type of the fabric that you want to bleach white in washing machine can sustain bleach. It is also important to find out whether the water in which bleaching will be performed is reacting well with the bleach you are using. If you are sure of these two things, then bleaching clothes in the washing machine is very easy

2.12. Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide creates the prime role in bleach wash technique. In alkaline medium, hydrogen peroxide breaks up and gives some perhydroxhylion, which discolor the colouring materials and as a result fading effect is developed. Hydrogen peroxide is used in scouring, bleaching bath for white/ready for dyeing of gray fabric garments. It is used also neutralized the garment from alkaline condition.

FOB Price: US $400-550 / Ton.

2.12.1. Fucntion of Hydrogen Peroxide
A. Hydrogen peroxide is created in the atmosphere when ultraviolet rays from the sun hit oxygen in the presence of moisture. It is basically the same chemical make up as water but with an extra oxygen atom. Because of this it breaks down quickly and harmlessly into oxygen and water.


B. Hydrogen peroxide has antibacterial and antiviral qualities and is a strong bleach. The most common form is three to six percent hydrogen peroxide solution and this works best in the home as an all-purpose cleaner.
  • Antibacterial
  • Antifungal
  • Kills mold
  • Kills mildew
2.13. Silicone Softener

FOB Price: US $2.0-2.2 / Kilogram

While many people rely on their favorite fabric softener to reduce static cling, soften their laundry and make ironing easier, they rarely stop to think about the science behind softening fabric.13 They were first devised in the early 1900s as a way to reduce the stiff, rough feeling of newly dyed cotton fabric. Early “cotton softeners” were developed using water, soap and oil — the oils most often used being corn, olive, and tallow.

Clothing manufacturers and consumers began to see the value in fabric softeners, and an industry was born. Products like these have evolved to meet additional consumer needs, with the addition of fresh scents, dyes and the ability to reduce wrinkles, make ironing easier, and added stain protection.

The typical product contains chemicals and additives to make the fabric soft and static free. Traditionally, the chemicals deposit themselves onto the fabric, but recent formulas use technology that allows the fabric softener to actually penetrate the fabric. This improves the absorption of the fabric, which in the past has been compromised by use of these products.

Sulfanine DM
Specialty softener, which imparts softness with a wet feel with body.
Silicone micro emulsion, gives excellent inner softness and silky touch to the all type of fabric.

Optical Brightness:
Two types of optical brightener are used in the washing plant –
  • Red brightener.
  • Blue brightener. Mainly optical brightener is used for improve the brightness of garments.
References
  1. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/07/washing-chemicals-different-types-of.html
  2. http://garmentec.blogspot.com
  3. http://www.textilecollection.blogspot.com/2012/02/normal-washpigment-washcaustic-wash.html
  4. http://www.indiamart.com/vijayshree-chemicals/powder-chemicals.html
  5. http://texpedia.org/index.php?option=com_easyblog&view=tags&layout=tag&id=319&Itemid
  6. http://www.ehow.com/about_5527577_sodium-metabisulfite.html
  7. http://cleaning.lovetoknow.com/Using_Hydrogen_Peroxide_for_Cleaning
  8. http://www.omtexchem.com/amino-silicone-emulsions.html
  9. http://www.roudlf.de.products.com
  10. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/how-does-bleach-work.html
  11. http://www.kenencoregroup.com/anti-redepositing-agent.html
  12. http://www.alibaba.com
  13. http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-fabric-softener-made-of.htm 
 

      Line Balancing in Apparel Production

      Wednesday 18 September 2013

      Importance of Line Balancing in Garment Industry
      Noor Ahmed Raaz
      B.Sc. in Apparel Manufacturing
      Asst. Merchandiser
      Opex Sinha Group, Narayongonj
      Email: raju.uttara72@yahoo.com





      Line Balancing
      Line Balancing is leveling the workload across all processes in a cell or value stream to remove bottlenecks and excess capacity. A constraint slows the process down and results if waiting for downstream operations and excess capacity results in waiting and absorption of fixed costs.
      Line Balancing in apparel industry
      It is the allocation of sewing machine, according to style and design of the garments. It depends on what types of garments we have to produce. It is done to increasing productivity.

      When you consider mass production, garments are produced in lines or set of machines instead of single machine. A line may be assembly line, modular line or section, a line set with online finishing and packing. A line includes multiple work stations with varied work contents. Production per hour is varied depending on work content (standard minutes of particular task/operation), allocation of total manpower to a particular operation, operator skill level and machine capacity. Operation with lowest production per hour is called as bottleneck operation for that line.

      Objectives of Line Balancing
      Match the production rate after all wastes have been removed to the talk time at each process of the value stream.
      1. Regular material flow.
      2. Maximum uses of man power and machine capacity.
      3. Minimum process time.
      4. Minimizing slack time.
      5. Minimizing workstation.
      6. Maximum output at the desired time.
      7. Quality maintenance of the garment.
      8. Reduce production cost.
      Importance of Line Balancing
      1. Line balancing helps to know about new machine required for new style.
      2. It becomes easier to distribute particular job to each operator.
      3. It becomes possible to deliver goods at right time at the agreed quality for list cost.
      4. Good line balancing increase the rate of production.
      5. Line balancing helps to compare the required machinery with the existing one and compare balance.
      6. It also helps in the determination of labor requirement.
      7. Good balancing reduces production time.
      8. Profit of a factory can be ensured by proper line balancing.
      9. Proper line balancing ensured optimum production at the agreed quality.
      10. It reduces faults in the finished product.
      Example of Line Balancing

      1. Machine layout with actual production.
      • >Process#1. Production 40 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
      • >Process#2. Production 45 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
      • >Process#3. Production 75 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
      • >Process#4. Production 80 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
      • >Process#5. Production 50 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
      Output: 40pices/hour.

      Analysis: Insufficient production due to lack of supply.

      2. Machine layout for balancing production.

      Analysis: Action plan for further development.

      Replace skilled or experienced operator for process#3, then production will increase, when production will be 80pices/hour. Then same target 90pices for process1, 3 & 4 and research on it, how production can be increased. The following action can be done.

      Limitations of Line Balancing
      1. Production lines were designed so that conveyor belts paced the speed of the employees‟ work. This arrangement wasnt appreciated by the employees.
      2. Inevitable changes lead to production lines being out of balance.
      3. Rebalancing causes disruptions to production 
       

      Basic Concept of Yarn Manufacturing (Machine Flowchart)

      Basic Concept of Yarn Manufacturing

      Alam Kamrul
      B.Sc. in Textile Engineering
      Noakhali Textile Engineering College
      Cell: +8801714533407



      Yarn:
      • Yarn is defined as a linear assemblage of the fibers twisted together.
      • The process of making the yarn from a textile fiber is called Spinning
      Yarn
      YARN MANUFACTURING PROCESS
      • BALE OPENER
      • MIXING
      • BLOW-ROOM
      • CARDING
      • DRAWING
      • COMBING
      • SIMPLEX (ROVING)
      • SPINNING (RING FRAME)
      BALE OPENING

      BALE OPENING or BREAKING:
      • The cotton tufts are opened in this process.
      • As the cotton arrives in an extremely compressed condition the first operation is to loosen the matted fibers
      • The cotton fiber is loosen by means of rotating spiked rollers of the bale opener. 
      Bale opener
      Mixing
      • This is a process of mixing the same/different category of fibers to get desired properties and cost effectiveness.
      • Mixing is done after the study of the essential properties of fiber like staple length,Tensile strength, fineness, uniformity etc. 
      Mixing
      BLOW ROOM
      • In this process the cleaning and opening of the cotton is done by beaters and openers.
      • The foreign materials like dust particles, seeds of cotton and other impurities are partially removed in this process.
      • The cotton tufts are opened and cleaned in this process and the cotton lap is made out. 
      Blowroom
      CARDING
      • Carding is the heart of spinning in this process the minute impurities like small seed particles,immature fibers etc. are removed.
      • The straightening and aligning of fibers are done in this process.
      • In carding the Blow room lap is attenuated to the card sliver. 
      Carding
      Draw Frame
      • Through drafting fibbers get paralleled
      • Up to Eight Carded Slivers are fed into the Draw-Frame and they are stretched/Straightened and made into a single sliver.
      • Also fiber blending can be done at this stage.
      Draw-Frame
      Simplex (Roving Frame)
      • Further drafting is done here to get the fibers more aligned/paralleled.
      • The Sliver from Draw-Frame is thicker and will be difficult to be fed into the Ring-frame as is, hence here the Slivers are stretched and were made thinner by Drafting and mild twisting (so as to strengthen the Roving).
      • The End-Product from the Simplex is called as Roving. 
      Simplex
      Ring Frame (Spinning)
      • The roving is fed into the Ring-frame and is made into yarn by further Drafting & Twisting.
      • To draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved
      • To impart strength to the fiber, by inserting twist.
      • Depending upon the yarn count required , the drafting and twisting can be adjusted. 
      Ring Frame

      Tools and Techniques of Industrial Engineering Used in Apparel Industry

      Tuesday 17 September 2013

      Tools & Techniques of Industrial Engineering
      Noor Ahmed Raaz
      B.Sc. in Apparel Manufacturing
      Asst. Merchandiser
      Opex Sinha Group, Narayongonj
      Email: raju.uttara72@yahoo.com




      Concept of Industrial Engineering (IE):
      Industrial Engineering (IE) is concerned with the design, Improvement, and installation of integrated system of men, material, and machines for the benefit of mankind .It draws upon specialized knowledge and skills in the mathematical and physical sciences together with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems.
      IE
      Tools of Industrial Engineering:
      The main aim of tools are to improve the productivity of the organization by optimum utilization of organizations resources: men, materials, and machines. The major tools used in industrial engineering are:
      1. Production planning and control.
      2. Inventory control.
      3. Job evaluation.
      4. Facilitates planning and material handling.
      5. System analysis.
      6. Linear programming.
      7. Simulation.
      8. Network analysis (PERT, CPM).
      9. Queuing models.
      10. Assignment.
      11. Sequencing and transportation models.
      12. Games theory and dynamic programming.
      13. Group technology.
      14. Statistical techniques.
      15. Quality control.
      16. Decision making theory.
      17. Replacement models.
      18. Assembly line balancing.
      19. MRP-JIT-ISO-TQM.etc.
      Techniques of Industrial Engineering:
      Planning and designing manufacturing processes and equipment is a main aspect of being an industrial technologist. An Industrial Technologist is often responsible for implementing certain designs and processes. Industrial Technology involves the management, operation, and maintenance of complex operation systems. Techniques of industrial engineering are-

      Method study:To establish a standard method of performing a job or an operation after thorough analysis of the jobs and to establish the layout of production facilities to have a uniform flow of material without back tracking.

      Time study (work measurement): This is a technique used to establish a standard time for a job or for an operation.

      Motion Economy: This is used to analyses the motions employed by the operators do the work. The principles of motion economy and motion analysis are very useful in mass production or for short cycle repetitive jobs.

      Value Analysis: It ensures that no unnecessary costs are built into the product and it tries to provide the required functions at the minimum cost. Hence, helps to enhance the worth of the product.

      Financial and non-financial Incentives: These helps to evolve at a rational compensation for the efforts of the workers.

      Production, Planning and Control: This includes the planning for the resources (like men, materials and machine) proper scheduling and controlling production activities to ensure the right quantity, quality of product at predetermined time and pre-established cost.

      Inventory Control: To find the economic lot size and the reorder levels for the items so that the item should be made available to the production at the right time and quantity to avoid stock out situation and with minimum capital lock-up.

      Job Evaluation: This is a technique which is used to determine the relative worth of jobs of the organization to aid in matching jobs and personnel and to arrive at sound wage policy.

      Material Handling Analysis: To scientifically analysis the movement of materials through various departments to eliminate unnecessary movement to enhance the efficiency of material handling.

      Ergonomics (Human Engineering): It is concerned with study of relationship between man and his working conditions to minimize mental and physical stress. It is concerned with man-machine system.

      Craft Upholstery Curtains-Product of Home Textile

      Monday 16 September 2013

      Craft Upholstery Curtains

      Carolyn Clayton
      United Kingdom
      Email: CClayton@simplicity.com





      Curtains can be essential in creating a homey ambiance without sacrificing sophistication. Curtains and draperies add up to the elegant and classy look in many areas of your home. Some people may think investing on good quality curtains can be very expensive. Actually, you can buy simple and plain colored curtains and add trimmings to make them more sophisticated. Choose colors that may compliment the colour of your walls and furniture accent. Otherwise, you can make curtains out of bed sheets or bed covers that you no longer use. 


      It’s easy to turn your simple curtain into an expensive-looking one with the use of upholstery trimmings, tiebacks and fashion trimmings that are available online. You can benefit from the versatility of trimmings because you can use it to embellish almost everything in your home. As for plain colored curtains, you will specifically need to have trimmings like braids, tassels, a combination of pom pom and balls or pearls and lace, or crystals and beads.
      Beaded-Tassel
      Using craft or fabric glue, attach a braid trimming to the edges of your curtain, both sides and bottom included. After that, sew the ribbon satin part of crystal and beads trimming just below the braid trimming without leaving a space, but make sure to choose both the braid and ribbon satin in exactly the same colour. When you’re done with the curtains, you can pick curtain tiebacks in rope with a combination of crystal and beads accent, and use it to hold your curtain on each side of the window. You would probably need rings on both sides of your window trim, as the ring would hold the rope of your tieback. When you get to see the finished product altogether with its embellishments, you will be amazed at how fashion trimmings and tiebacks can change the simple-looking curtains you once had into an elegant, classy and expensive-looking new craft upholstered curtains.
      Metaltie back
      Another smart way to create and design your own curtains is by stencilling and adding some fashion trimmings. You might not have noticed but stencilled curtains, pillow covers and table runners are quite a fad these days. This is something ideally done for short panel window curtains and shower curtains. You will need some light material scrap fabric, self-stick fabric stencils and fabric glue. To do this, you have to spread the whole fabric on a huge table and stencil your way through. There are self-stick stencils of various designs and some have groups of words that comprise a certain theme. When you’re done stencilling, you need to iron your stencilled fabric. As for the edges of the fabric, you have two options; you can either sew it or apply fabric glue to seal it. You can use the same thing in making rod pockets on it. Last but not the least, you can put on woven braids or knitted braids on the edges of your curtain (braids are best for edging purposes). If you want to keep it simple, you can stick to the braids or add basic beaded ball or pom pom fringes to it. Otherwise if you’re the type who craves embellishment, then you can choose from a wide array of beaded fringes selection. But, you have to be aware that embellishments like these aren’t suitable for stencils having a themed group of words. This will work best with stencils having a floral design perhaps or something that have uniform patterns. When you are tired of sticking to conventional ideas, do not hinder yourself from exploring innovative ways of beautifying your home with the help of DIY craft and or craft upholstery.

      British Trimmings offer a great range of craft supplies online and upholstery trimmings such as curtain tie backs, pom pom fringes, piping cored and much more. 

      Application of Color and Light Theory in Textile Wet Processing (Dyeing)

      Color & Light Theory

      Alam Kamrul
      B.Sc. in Textile Engineering
      Noakhali Textile Engineering College
      Cell: +8801714533407





      Electromagnetic Radiation: 
      From sunlight different radiation (radiant energy) of different wave length reach the earth. Some restricts at upper layer, some arrives on earth. Electro-magnetic radiation is a vector & it creates two types of fields which is given below:
      Magnetic wave
      1. Electric Field: Vertically propagating waves-
      2. Magnetic Field: Horizontally propagating waves-
      Electric & Magnetic Field
      Visible Spectrum: 
      Within different wavelength radiation from sunlight ,only 300nm-700nm wavelength radiations are light and color sensitive.

      Light: 
      Light is energy formed by electromagnetic radiation, consisting of elementary particle photon.Light , and all other electromagnetic radiation, travels at a speed of about 299,728 km (185,831 mi) per second in a vacuum.

      It is made up of electromagnetic waves with wavelengths between 4 × 10-7 and 7 × 10-7 meters.

      Color: 
      Color is a resultant of light, object & viewer specification of wave length of light senses for specific color. Color is developed in human brain after successful perception.

      A property depending on the relations of light to the eye, by which individual and specific differences in the hues and tints of objects are apprehended in vision; as, gay colors; sad colors, etc.

      Primary Colors:
      These are colors that cannot be created through the mixing of other colors. Primary colors cannot be made from other colors. They are colors in their own right. The primary colors are:
      • red 
      • yellow
      • blue
      Color wheels show us how colors are related.


      SECONDARY COLOURS: 
      Primary colors can be mixed together to produce SECONDARY COLOURS. Secondary colors are made by mixing two primary colors. Each secondary color is made from the two primary colors closest to it on the color wheel. The secondary colors are:
      • green 
      • orange
      • violet (purple)

      Color and Light Theory:
      1. Additive /Light/RGB Theory
      2. Substractive /Pigment Theory
      1. Additive /Light/RGB Theory: 
      On the basis of different wavelength light combination, additive theory is developed. In this theory primary colors are red, green and blue.

      Proportionate mixing of these primaries produces white.
      • R+G+B =White
      • R+G=Yellow
      • G+B=Cyan
      • R+B=Magenta
      So, Cyan, Yellow, Magenta are Secondary colors. Ex-TV screen, stage lighting etc.

      Additive and subtractive color combinitions
      2. Substractive /Pigment Theory: 
      On the basis of absorption of different wavelength of radiation and thus substracting , Substractive theory is developed .Here cyan, yellow, magenta are primary colors.

      Proportionate mixing of these primaries produces black color. 

      White & Black: 
      White means presence of all wavelength radiation of visual colors .In others words, all colors are reflected.

      Black means absence of all wavelength radiation of visual colors. In other words, all colors are absorbed. 

      • Cyan + Yellow = Green
      • Yellow + Magenta = Red
      • Cyan + Magenta = Blue
      Specification of Color:
      • Hue: Name of Color; Ex-Red, Green, Blue etc.
      • Value: Lightness & Darkness
      • Chroma: Brightness & Dullness (saturation & vividness)
      Color Space: 
      Color space is a three-dimensional geometric space with axis appropriately

      Defined so that symbols for all possible color perceptions of humans or other animals fit into it in an order corresponding to the psychological order. In this space each color perception is represented as a point. All colors can be imagined in a range of sphere, cube and triangle to correlate each other. The imaginary range is known as color space.

      Different color theories for measurement:
      1. Munsell Theory
      2. CIE Lab Theory
      3. CIE LCH Theory
      4. XYZ Theory
      Munsell Color Theory: 
      Color theory is based on the principals made famous by artist Albert Munsell. The 3 aspects considered in his theory are Intensity (light or dark), hue (the actual colors) and Chroma (or saturation).

      Munsell modeled his system as an orb around whose equator runs a band of colors. The axis of the orb is a scale of neutral gray values with white as the North Pole and black as the South Pole. Extending horizontally from the axis at each gray value is a gradation of color progressing from neutral gray to full saturation. With these three defining aspects, any of thousands of colors could be fully described. Munsell named these aspects, or qualities, Hue, Value, and Chroma. Every color will be somewhere along this grid.

      For example, colors at the bottom of the center pole will be prevalent in the “Deep” seasons. At the top of the pole, those colors will be found in the “Light” seasons. 

      Hue: 
      He selected five principle colors: red, yellow, green, blue, and purple; and five intermediate colors: yellow-red, green-yellow, blue-green, purple-blue, and red-purple; and he arranged these in a wheel measured off in 100 compass points:
      In between two primaries, there are ten subdivisions.
      Value: 
      Value was defined by Munsell defined value as “the quality by which we distinguish a light color from a dark one.” Value is a neutral axis that refers to the grey level of the color.

      Represented along the axis of the hue circle vertically and is divided into ten equal steps. 0 refers to black and 10 refer to white.

      Chroma: 
      Chroma is the quality that distinguishes the difference from a pure hue to a gray shade. The chroma axis extends from the value axis at a right angle and the amount of chroma is noted after the value designation. From value axis, perpendicularly towards hue circle chroma scale is developed in 8 divisions as 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 12, 14, 16 

      Chromaticity:
      Chromaticity is an objective specification of the quality of a color regardless of its luminance, that is, as determined by its hue and colorfulness (or saturation, chroma, intensity, or excitation purity).

      Chromaticity is defined as the “property of a color stimulus defined by its chromaticity coordinates, or by its dominant or complementary wavelength and purity taken together.” The apparent color of a light source, specified by its three chromaticity coordinates.

      Based on the fact that the human eye has three different types of color sensitive cones, the response of the eye is best described in terms of three “tristimulus values”.
      • From the beginning ,three primaries were considered as three axis of solid
      • For simplification purpose, a two dimensional locus was developed.

      However, the concept of color can be divided into two parts: brightness and chromaticity. For example, the color white is a bright color, while the color grey is considered to be a less bright version of that same white.

      Chromaticity Diagram:
      • The three-dimensional color space CIE XYZ is the basis for all color management systems.
      • This color space contains all perceivable colors - the human gamut. Many of them cannot be
      • Shown on monitors or printed.
      • The two dimensional CIE chromaticity diagram xyY (below) shows a special projection of the
      • Three dimensional CIE color space XYZ.
      • Some interpretations are possible in xyY, others require the three dimensional space XYZ or
      • The related three dimensional space CIE Lab.

      The diagram at left represents the mapping of human color perception in terms of two CIE parameters x and y. The spectral colors are distributed around the edge of the “color space” as shown, and that outline includes all of the perceived hues and provides a framework for investigating color.

      Color Gamut:
      The gamut of any RGB system is mostly visualized by a triangle in xyY. Color gamut is specified color region derived from CIE chromaticity diagram. The chromaticity diagram below shows the actual gamut for different luminances Y. Low luminances seem to produce a large gamut.

      The gamut appears similarly in all RGB systems. A color outside the triangle (which is defined by the primaries) is always out-of-gamut. A color inside the triangle is not necessarily in-gamut. The diagram represents all of the chromaticity’s visible to the average person. These are shown in color and this region is called the gamut of human vision.

      Object:
      • To know hue, brightness and lightness.
      Complementary Color: Two colors by addition producing white are known complementary color to each other.

      Spectral Power Distribution: 
      A pictorial representation of the radiant power emitted by a light source at each wavelength or band of wavelengths in the visible region of the electromagnetic spectrum (360 to 770 nanometers).

      The SPD can be measured by a spectrophotometer. From the SPD both the luminance and the chromaticity of a color may be derived to precisely describe the color in the CIE system.

      Spectral Power Distribution (SPD) curves chart the spectral characteristics of a light source, showing the radiant power of the light source at each wavelength or band of wavelengths across the visible spectrum.

      The SPD of light from an illuminated surface is the product of the percent reflectance of the surface and the SPD of the light which falls on the surface.

      An example of the spectral power distribution of light from common objects shows that such colors arise from a range of wavelengths. Even the vivid red of a tomato involves a range of wavelengths in the red region of the visible spectrum.

      Color Stimulus: 
      A radiant flux capable of producing a color perception.Colour is carried by light, electromagnetic waves, but the sensation of colour is subject to many other influences, which makes its quantitative description difficult, to say the least.

      For colour measurement, therefore, one uses “free colours” (or aperture colours), a structureless viewing field, and the only question is whether the two halves of the field are equal or not. This eliminates all additional clues we might get on the “true” colour of the object.


      It is determined by: