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The Strategies View of Industrial Engineering and Its Discussion

Tuesday 31 December 2013

The Strategies View of Industrial Engineering and Its Discussion

Rahamat Ullah Joy
B.sc in Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University
Facebook: Rahamat Ullah Joy
Email: rahamat.tex@gamil.com
Phone: +8801614445257
 
 
 


Introduction:
Industrial engineering (IE) is about choices. Other engineering disciplines apply skills to very specific areas. IE gives you the opportunity to work in a variety of businesses. The most distinctive aspect of industrial engineering is the flexibility that it offers. Whether it’s shortening a roller coaster line, streamlining an operating room, distributing products worldwide, or manufacturing superior automobiles, all share the common goal of saving money and increasing efficiencies.

The most distinctive aspect of industrial engineering is the flexibility it offers. Whether it’s shortening a rollercoaster line, streamlining an operating room, distributing products worldwide, or manufacturing superior automobiles, these challenges share the common goal of saving companies money and increasing efficiencies.

As companies adopt management philosophies of continuous productivity and quality improvement to survive in the increasingly competitive world market, the need for industrial engineers is growing. Why? Industrial engineers are the only engineering professionals trained specifically to be productivity and quality improvement specialists.

Industrial engineers figure out how to do things better. They engineer processes and systems that improve quality and productivity. They work to eliminate waste of time, money, materials, energy and other commodities. This is why many industrial engineers end up being promoted into management positions.

Many people are misled by the term industrial engineer. It’s not just about manufacturing. It also encompasses service industries, with many IEs employed in entertainment industries, shipping and logistics businesses, and healthcare organizations.

Many people are misled by the term “industrial engineer.” The “industrial” does not mean just manufacturing. It encompasses service industries as well. It has long been known that industrial engineers have the technical training to make improvements in a manufacturing setting. Now it is becoming increasingly recognized that these same techniques can be used to evaluate and improve productivity and quality in service industries.

What Does an Industrial Engineer Do?
Industrial engineers figure out ways to do things better. They engineer processes and systems that improve quality and productivity. IE’s make significant contributions to their employers by saving money while making the workplace better for fellow workers. In addition to manufacturing, industrial engineers apply their skills in a variety of settings.

Here are a few examples:
  • As a management engineer in a hospital, an IE may help doctors and nurses make the best use of their time in treating patients. 
  • As an ergonomist in a television manufacturing plant, an IE may change the tools workers use to assemble televisions to reduce the risk of repetitive stress injuries. 
  • As an operations analyst for an airline, an IE may design a bar coding system for identifying and transporting passengers luggage to ensure that it does not get lost. 
  • As a quality engineer for a public gas and electric company, an IE may improve customer satisfaction by designing a process to schedule service calls around the availability of the customer.
Manufacturing firms and service industries hire a significant number of IE’s. Today, more and more businesses hire IE’s in areas like sales and marketing, finance, information systems, and personnel. Other industries employing IE’s are hospitals, airlines, banks, railroads, and social services.

Industrial engineering has provided a systematic approach to streamline and improve productivity and efficiency in the business world.
  • IE’s provide leaner, more efficient, and more profitable business practices while increasing customer service and quality. 
  • IE’s make the work environment safer, faster, easier, and more rewarding. 
  • They provide a method by which businesses can analyze their processes and try to make improvements to them. Staying focused on optimization ‐ doing more with less ‐ which helps to reduce waste in society. 
  • IE’s help reduce costs associated with new technologies, thus allowing more of the population to better their lives by being able to afford these advances.

FIG : WORKING ARENA OF IE’S
Where Do Industrial Engineers Work?
Manufacturing firms and service industries hire a significant number of IE’s. Today, more and more businesses hire IE’s in areas like sales and marketing, finance, information systems, and personnel. Other industries employing IE’s are hospitals, airlines, banks, railroads, and social services.

MANAGE PROJECTS
  • Project Management
  • Project Scheduling
  • Risk Management
PROCESS IMPROVEMENT
  • Lean Manufacturing
  • Engineering Economic Analysis
  • Process Modeling
  • Root Cause Analysis
  • Statistical Methods
  • Six Sigma
  • Time Studies
  • Work Sampling
SUPPLY CHAIN ANALYSIS
  • Supply Chain Alignment
  • Material Logistic
  • Inventory Control
  • Supplier Support
  • Make/Buy Mfg Process
OPERATIONS IMPROVEMENT
  • Ergonomics & Human Factors
  • Operating Plans
  • Recovery Planning
  • Capacity Planning
INTEGRATED SYSTEMS
  • Value Stream Analysis
  • Facilities Layout
  • Production System Design
  • Manufacturing Process Design
  • Systems Thinking
DIRECT SUPPORT TO PRODUCTION
  • Production Scheduling
  • Theory of Constraints
  • Budgets & Forecasts
  • Crew Empowerment
  • Defect Analysis
  • Benchmarking Analysis
Why Choose Industrial Engineering?
Industrial engineering is a versatile and diverse discipline concerned with the design, analysis, and optimization of systems at both the process and enterprise level. But even that broad‐based statement doesn’t do justice to the range of problem‐solving skills that an industrial engineering education will provide. It’s a way of thinking, examining, and analyzing. It’s a way of finding the best solution to a situation.

Industrial engineers can go anywhere. Be anything. The possibilities are limitless.

Other criteria or site of IE’s

1. Industrial Engineer’s Job Profile
It was just a couple of years back that demand of an industrial engineer has increased many times. Reason, an Industrial engineer can do a lot to improve performance of the company

2. How to Calculate SAM of a Garment?
SAM or Standard Allowed Minute is used to measure task or work content of a garment. This term is widely used by industrial engineers and production people in the garment manufacturing industry. For the estimation of cost of making a garment SAM value plays a very important role

3. Comparison between Progressive bundle system and UPS system
In the industrial sewing plants various types of sewing systems are installed. A plant owner chooses these systems depending on the production volume, product categories, and cost effectiveness of high tech machineries. Among those “Progressive Bundle System” (PBS) is mostly installed sewing system till date.

4. How to calculate operator efficiency at work?
In apparel manufacturing, skills and expertise of a sewing operator is being presented in “Efficiency” term. An operator with higher efficiency produces more garments than an operator with lower efficiency in the same time frame. When operators work with higher efficiency, manufacturing cost of the factory goes down.

5. Can anybody hit 100% Efficiency of GSD(General sewing data ) SAM?
I have intentionally referred ‘GSD SAM’ because most of garment engineers, industry experts and business owners believe that GSD based standard minutes are more accurate than other. You may feel that what a silly question it is. But I met numbers of young industrial engineers, who ask me questions in the same way I have titled this article.

6. What is Productivity?
Productivity is a measure of the efficiency and effectiveness to which organizational resources (inputs) are utilized for the creation of products and/or services (outputs). Productivity measurement is both a measure of input utilization and an assessment as to whether or not input utilization is growing faster than output

7. KPIs for Garment Manufacturers
Key performance Indicators (KPIs) are measured to assess where the factory currently stands and to find key focus areas where management needs to look into. Top 9 KPIs has been listed and explained below that are measured by garment manufacturers (export houses) in the apparel industry.

Last Content:
Industrial engineering is best process to improve in any sector or industry to gain more profit but invest is low. When we discuss the ie then we must be follow the work study (http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/11/an-overview-of-work-study-in-textile.html), time study, method study and motion study an industrial engineer must follow that criteria. and finally

IE’s make processes better in the following ways:

  • More efficient and more profitable business practices
  • Better customer service and product quality
  • Improved efficiency
  • Increased ability to do more with less
  • Making work safer, faster, easier, and more rewarding
  • Helping companies produce more products quickly
  • Making the world safer through better designed products
  • Reducing costs associated with new technologies
Reference:
  1. http://www.iienet2.org/details.aspx?id=716
  2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Industrial_engineering
  3. http://www.iienet2.org/uploadedFiles/IIE/Jobs/Jobs_Details/09PP104_RolesInIndustry_PowerPoint.pdf 
 

What is Micro Fiber? | Properties of Microfibers

Monday 30 December 2013

Study on Microfiber
Harshani Wijendra
Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel Technology (SLITA)
Email: harshani_bipasha@yahoo.com





What is Micro Fiber?
Microfiber or microfiber is synthetic fiber finer than one or 1.3 denier or decitex/thread. This is 1/100th the diameter of a human hair and 1/20th the diameter of a strand of silk. The most common types of microfibers are made from polyesters, polyamides (e.g., nylon, Kevlar, Nomex, trogamide), or a conjugation of polyester, polyamide, and polypropylene (Prolen).

Microfiber combines two basic fibers, Polyester and Polyamide (a Nylon by-product). These fibers are usually “split” and formed into a woven fabric of 80% Polyester (the scrubbing and cleaning fiber), and 20% Polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fiber).

These threads are very small in diameter making them super soft. Rated in denier, the unit for measuring fineness of fabric, a strand of cotton has a rating of 200. A human hair has a denier of 20 and a strand of silk has a denier of 8. Microfiber has a denier of 0.01 to 0.02! At minimum, 100 times finer than a human hair. Softer than silk, yet bull-dog tough, split Microfiber cloth attracts dust, grime, oily films and salt residues like a magnet.

The unique surface structure of split Microfiber cloth contains hundreds of thousands of micro fiber “hooks” per square inch! These micro-hooks grab, lift, and hold dust and grime without the need for cleaning solutions. Microfiber cloth can be used damp or dry. Used dry, Microfiber cloth works like a chamois. The super absorbent weaves holds up to seven times its weight in fluid and will not scratch paint, glass, acrylics or plastic window tint films.

Properties of Microfibres
Microfibers are made solely from man-made fibers. They are the finest of all the fibers. Sportswear from microfibers functions particularly well. It is breathable and at the same time provides reliable protection against wind and rain. Fashionable apparels in microfibers have graceful flow, silk-like feel and are extremely comfortable. Microfiber clothing is not sensitive, retaining its positive qualities after washing or cleaning.
Comparison of microfiber with other textile fiber
General Properties of Microfibers
  1. Ultra-fine linear density (less than 0.1 dtex/f), finer than the most delicate silk.
  2. Extremely drapeable & Durability.
  3. Very soft, luxurious hand with a silken or suede touch.
  4. Washable and dry-cleanable.
  5. Shrink resistance.
  6. High strength, although the filaments are super fine.
  7. Insulates well against wind, rain and cold.
  8. Anti-microbial agents help to protect both family members and work staff from the dangers of the bacteria that cause odor and mildew.
  9. Microfibre is hypoallergenic, and so does not create problems for those suffering from allergies.
  10. Microfibre is non-electrostatic.
  11. Microfibres are super-absorbent, absorbing over 7 times their weight in water.
  12. Microfiber dries in one-third of the time of ordinary fibres.
  13. Microfibres are environmentally friendly
  14. Improved breathability
  15. Vivid prints with more clarity and sharper contrast
  16. Appearance retention
  17. Can be made windproof and water resistant
  18. The greater fiber surface area also results in higher rates of dyeing at lower temperatures, and decreased fastness to light, crocking (fastness to rubbing), water & ozone. 
 

Definition, Objectives and Evaluation of Garment Washing

Saturday 28 December 2013

Definition, Objectives and Evaluation of Garment Washing

Mustaque Ahammed Mamun
Department of Textile Engineering
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology (DUET)
Cell: +8801723300703 
Email: mamuntex09@gmail.com





Defination: 
The technology which is used to modify the appearance, outlook comfort ability & fashion of the garments is called garment washing.

Purpose of Garments Washing:
Purpose of washing/Best wash look is the best touch of a garment - This may be explained in the following way :-
  1. Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing the garments create a new look which seems the new touch of fashion.
  2. By the washing technique, faded/old look, color or tinted affect is created in the garments which also seem the best touch of garments.
  3. Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting, whiskering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, P. P spray, hand crapping, P.P spoon zing etc. Which also seems the best touch of garments.
  4. The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result the garment become size free and become soft hand feel.
  5. When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.
  6. To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and market developments.
  7. Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of the wash garments.
  8. Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to washing.
  9. To remove hairiness of garments to make it comfortable to wear.
Evaluation of Garment Washing:
The evolution of the jean’s market led to the development of some unique and creative methods for the processing of denim garments. Originally, jeans were marketed and sold as work wear, but when jeans appreciated by consumers as general casual wear, they became fashionable and new techniques were developed to enhance denim garments.
Garment washing
The first generation of indigo jeans was stiff and uncomfortable when first purchased, due to the finishing techniques used for denim fabrics. The second generation of the jean’s market evolution produced pre-washed jeans by the manufacturer. These jeans had a slightly faded appearance and a softer hand that felt comfortable. Not long after the introduction of pre-washed jeans, the idea of using abrasive stones to accelerate the aging process was developed and “stone washing” was born, creating an even more “broken-in” look. Next, chlorine bleach was incorporated in these wash techniques ice washing was developed, in which the porous stones are soaked in a bleaching agent and then tumbled with dry or slightly damp garments.
Fashion of washed garments
Most recently, a cellulase wash procedure was developed in which cellulase enzymes were used to accelerate color and fiber removal. This process can be more efficient, since with fewer stones. These garment washing techniques were originally developed for denim garments, but are now being used for a wide variety of different garment types. This technical article describes the basic wash, stonewash, stonewash with chlorine, ice wash, and cellulase wash techniques used for cotton garments. Any of these procedures can be modified to fit a particular situation, depending upon garment type, available equipment and process flow.

How to Maintain Good Quality in Cone Winding?

Friday 27 December 2013

Maintain Good Quality in Cone Winding
Harshani Wijendra
Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel Technology (SLITA)
Email: harshani_bipasha@yahoo.com





Cone Winding:
It is the final stage of spinning. After manufacturing of yarn, from different departments in the preparatory process and ring department, it is ready to make a shape into final cone form so that it can be shipped to customer for use. During winding process of yarn following objectives are met.
Cone Winding
1. Scanning and faults removing
  • Electric Scanners (uster) are used for checking and elimination of yarn faults during winding process. This process is called Usterization of yarn. Such faults are called scan-cuts.
2. Splicing of broken or cut yarn
  • Auto splicing is done for broken yarn pieces to eliminate yarn knots and bad piecing.
3. Bigger package
  • Conversion of yarn from small ring bobbins to bigger yarn cones of different international standard or as per requirement of customer. During achieving above objectives or making of winding cones some faults are created during the process. These faults need to be controlled through monitoring and continuous study. Most of the winding faults are very dangerous for the next subsequent process which can be warping or knitting or doubling. We can face complains from customer of breakage of yarn during unwinding process.
How to maintain good Quality in Cone Winding?
Following point should be considered for quality point of view
  • Winding speed should be 1200 meter per minute for getting good quality.
  • For getting good quality, yarn fault clearers device setting should be as close as possible in order to eliminate the disturbing yarn faults.
  • In order to get good quality of yarn count channel setting should be less than 7%.
  • Cone which we prepare for weaving purpose should have minimum fault for getting good quality, especially in the long thin places and long thick places.
  • For getting good quality yarn, splice strength must be 75% more than of the yarn strength.
  • Splice appearance should be good. Splice device should be checked twice in a week.
  • To get better efficiency, cone weight should be 1.8 to 2.4.
  • Yarn winding tension must not be high during winding. If we will keep it high then tensile properties will be affected such as elongation and tenacity.
  • If waxing attachment is below the clearers, the clearers should be clean at least once in a day.
  • Wax roller should rotate properly 
 

Application of Knitted Fabrics in Technical and Medical Textiles

APPLICATION OF KNITTED FABRICS IN TECHNICAL & MEDICAL TEXTILES 
 Abdulwahid Dadhiwale
D.K.T.E society’s textile and enginieering institute of technology
Diploma In Textile Manufactures
Email: wahidw202@gmail.com




Abstract:
Knitted fabrics and knitting technology play very important role on the fields of technical and medical textiles and their importance is ever greater. Experts estimate that their annual consumption is increasing by 3,8 % in average and it can reach about 24 million tons in 2010. Within this the consumption of each sector is increasing. Roughly one third of the world’s fibre consumption is used for production of technical textiles.

The term “technical textiles” covers many fields of application that are mirrored in the terminology of Tech-textile which is very much used generally when grouping these products. Techtextil differentiates 11 groups and knitted fabrics and products made by knitting technologies can be found in each of them.

The lecture introduces such applications on many examples. We think that use of knitting technologies in the development of technical and medical textiles can help this sector to survive this difficult period of the European textile industry.

Keywords: knitting, knitted fabrics, technical textiles, medical textiles

1. INTRODUCTION
Importance of technical textiles is great and increasing. Experts estimate that annual rising ratio of this application of textile materials is 3.8 % in average and consumption in each filed of this group of applications is anticipated as growing. Roughly one third of the quantity of the world’s fibre consumption is used in production of technical textiles. Range of technical textiles is very wide. There are various definitions of this term from which we usually use the list disseminated by the well known international fair of these products, Techtextil, which contains 11 groups.
Fig 1.Technical textiles
Thus, we can say that the term “technical textiles” can be defined as do not belong to them the usual underwear and outerwear products as well as products called ordinary home textiles and household textiles (table linen, bed linen, dishcloth, curtains, etc.) except the ones used in furniture and upholstery.

Most of technical textiles are made of non-conventional materials, they are usually man-made fibres, in many cases special types developed for specific applications. Metallic yarns (thin wires) alone or parallel to other yarns are also used in some technical knitted fabrics. However, traditional materials, including those of natural origin, play important role in some fields.

Though each production technologies are involved in these fields, from spinning to the various kinds of fabric manufacture, including manufacture of ropes and twines, we concentrate in this paper to the role of knitting technologies.

2. USE OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGIES IN MANUFACTURE OF TECHNICAL TEXTILES
Studying the objects exhibited on fairs and the articles published in technical papers and on the Internet we have the experience that various kinds of warp knitted fabrics play the most important role among knitted technical textiles. These fabrics are made on tricot, raschel, crochet and knit braiding1 machines. Products of these machines can be used in themselves, like nets or bandages, but also as reinforcement materials in composites or backing materials for laminated or coated fabrics.

However, besides warp knitting technology important products are made also on weft knitting, mainly on circular knitting machines but V-bed flat knitting must not be neglected either.

2.1 Nets
Application field of nets is extremely wide. Agriculture, fishing, packaging, transport, sports, shading technology, construction, healthcare, surgery, safety technology and military presents many good examples for that. Many of these nets are made by raschel or crocheting technology the great advantage of which is that they do not contain knots (Fig. 2). This makes the nets easier to handle because the layers do not tangle up and there are no knots that could harm the good packed into the net. Warp knitted nets – both flat and tubular ones – can be produced with very high productivity.

Materials used for net manufacture are very different, depending on the end use. Spun yarns or filament yarns, narrow plastic tapes are commonly used for this purpose. Elastic nets are made with using of elastane yarns.
Figure 2: Raschel net does not contain knots
Width of flat nets knitted on raschel or tricot machines may reach as well 5 to 6 metres while to make narrower variants (up to 100 to 120 cm width) crochet machines are also available. Raschel machines with two needle bars are able to produce wide tubular net fabrics. To manufacture tubular nets of smaller diameters (from 1 or 2 centimetres to about 20 cm) knit breading machines can be used very effectively but their final diameter can be extended in the practice if they contain elastane yarns.

2.2 Knitted fabrics with orientated behaviours
Knitted fabrics with orientated behaviours are made usually with lots of yarns laid lengthwise, crosswise and/or diagonally into the fabric. Their keeping together is performed by warp knitted loops. Aim of these 1 Knit braider is a circular warp knitting machine working with latch needles, making similar products as braiding machines (nets, twines, etc.)

a) b) c)
Figure 3: Knitted fabrics with orientated behaviours
a) Monoaxial [5], b) biaxial, c) multiaxal [5]

structures is mainly to reduce the stretch and/or to increase the forth of the fabric in one or more directions. If this effect is realized only in one direction (lengthwise or crosswise) the fabric is called “unidirectional” or “monoaxial”. If this behaviour asserts itself in both directions the fabric is called “biaxial”. “Multiaxial” or “multidirectional” fabrics have almost the same behaviour in every direction (Fig. 3.). To manufacture such fabrics special tricot and raschel machines have been developed completed by equipment to prepare and lead the lots of reinforcing yarns into the place of loop formation. In these fabric constructions the laid-in yarns play the main role, the loops only link them together.

There are a great number of end uses for these fabrics. Biaxial fabrics with PVC coating, for instance, are used for manufacture of stressed roof constructions by which very wide spaces can be covered. Fabrics with directed behaviours are available also as reinforcement materials of composites or for geogrids.

2.3 Spacer fabrics
Among knitted fabrics perhaps the most spectacular development can be registered in case of spacer fabrics. This is already the product of the 21st century, their development began only several years ago but it has made great progress since then. Though the principle of the fabrication is not new, it goes back to the manufacture of plush fabrics on raschel machine, the adaptation of this technology to make a completely new type of fabric is very ingenious. At the beginning they were developed really on two needle bar raschel machines but now there are also circular knitting machines on the market for manufacturing of such products and, of course, V-bed flat knitting machines are also able to make spacer fabrics of some kinds (Fig. 4). The two surface layers of spacer fabrics are usually linked by relatively thick monofilaments which makes the fabric elastic when pressed in thickness direction. This is the most important reason why spacer fabrics have found many fields of application. They can substitute foam in seats or beds, in orthopaedic support devices, in bras and shoes. It can serve in smart clothes as heat insulation or for forming of ventilation passages. As a type of geotextiles spacer fabrics can be used to lead off water from the soil. In manufacturing of composites used in the motor industry or ship building they can work as reinforcement inlay. Using proper yarns or with application of special treatment they can be electrically conductive, flame retardant, antibacterial, etc.

As we see at this moment, most spacer fabrics used are made on raschel machines or, in recent times, also on crochet machines. Needle bed distance on these machines can be varied within wide range and fabric thickness can reach even 60 mm. On circular knitting machines needle bed distance is much more limited, only thinner (thickness of some millimetres) spacer fabrics can be made on them. However, these variants are also very important and can be found in many products. I am convinced that spacer fabrics will have high importance in the future among technical end uses,including healthcare. a) b) c)
a) Raschel [5], b) circular knitted [4], c) V-bed flat knitted [3]
Figure 4: Spacer fabrics
2.4 Stitch bonding
Stitch bonding machines combine knitting and sewing. They have grown from warp knitting technology and their products occupy an intermediate position between knitted and nonwoven fabrics. This fabric contains a carded web which is reinforced by yarns or loops formed from fibres pulled out from the web itself. Needles of the warp knitting machine pierce holes through the web and work like a sewing needle when forming a seam of chain stitching (called pillar stitch in warp knitting technology) or zigzag seam where stitches made on neighbouring needles couple with each other (called tricot lap in warp knitting technology). These fabrics have great importance in almost each class of technical textiles. They are used very often as reinforcing materials in composites or for heat or sound insulation, filling materials in clothes or furniture, etc. A further variant of such fabrics is when not only carded web but lots of yarns are laid in various directions over the web and all of these are stitched together. This formation may be called “composite fabric” since it is a composition of various types of textiles (web and yarns). They find application fields among filters, geotextiles, reinforcement materials in composites, etc.

Advantage of these fabrics is that the carded web may be made of various fibres which, because of their length or quality, can not be spun, even in various blending, fabric thickness and stitch density (number of stitches in length unit) as well as yarn counts (in accordance with machine cut) can be varied in relatively wide range. The fabric can be easily formed. At the end of its lifetime it can be torn and recycled.

2.5 Knitted fabrics in construction
Construction industry is a great market for textiles and also for knitted fabrics among them. Around buildings being under construction or renovation the scaffold is usually covered by raschel-knitted net (Fig. 5) made of polypropylene foil tapes. Knitted fabrics can be used also to reinforce wall coverings, both outside and inside. Some types of geotextiles and geogrids are also knitted structures, as mentioned above (Fig. 6) Many buildings, and not only provisional ones, have roofs made of textile fabrics (sports stadiums, air terminals, halls for various functions, etc.). If this roof is made from knitted fabric bi- or multiaxial knitted structures are used with waterproof and weatherproof coating. Huge areas, many hundreds of square metres can be covered by such fabrics.
Figure 5 and 6: Scaffold covered by raschel net and Knitted composite fabric used for driveway reinforcement

Figure 7: Warp knitted fabric for reinforcment of concrete slab [2]
Another possible application of knitted fabrics in construction is textile reinforced concrete. There are warp knitted structures developed especially for this purpose like the one shown in Fig. 7. Textile reinforced concrete has the advantage that it is much lighter than the one reinforced by steel bars.

2.6 Knitted fabrics in medical treatment
Many kinds of textiles are used in medical treatment. It is not surprising that a great part of clothing worn by doctors and nurses in hospitals and clinics is product of the knitting industry (e.g. undershirts, socks). But sometimes they are not conventional ones, they are made from yarns or with finishing that make them antibacterial against infections or against of rising of unpleasant sweaty smell. Various types of bandages (both rigid and elastic), surgical stockings, certain parts of orthopaedic equipment (ortheses) (like knee-, wrist- and elbow-braces, calf and lumbar supports, etc.) are also made by knitting technology. An important application field for spacer fabrics is manufacturing of mattresses for beds, operating tables and wheelchairs. Knitted products find application field also among implants: artificial blood vessels (they can be circular knitted or warp knitted, the latter is made on double needle bar raschel machine and can be made also in Y form), surgical meshes (made on tricot machine), coverings of artificial heart valves, etc. (Fig. 8). Thus, development and application of textiles open interesting possibilities for medical sciences and vice versa: manufacture of textiles for medical treatments offer important possibilities for the textile industry. Cooperation of doctors and technical experts of the textile industry can lead to development of new surgical technologies. Structure of the textiles used as implants is determined by its material composition, fibres’ behaviour and features of degradation. Materials of sutures and implants having biologically good properties, designable absorption and degradability and that endure the sterilization process are continuously subjects of research. At the same time, continuous development of textile technologies and machines enables to develop newer and newer methods in surgery and medical treatment. For this mutual development textile technologists and doctors must closely cooperate, while all the administrative procedures concerning manufacturing and trading of such products must be strictly respected.

2.7 Knitted fabrics in functional clothes

Knitted fabrics may be important components of functional clothes, too. For example, spacer fabrics can be used here as lining that, due to its hollow structure, enables ventilation inside the garment or, due to its elastic behaviour in thickness direction, protects against pressure or hit. This is why this fabric is a penchant for lining of motorcyclists’ protective garments. The speciality of a spacer fabric that there is a distance between its two surfaces but they can be springily pressed together enables to use them as electric switch if electrically conductive yarns are used in the two isolated surfaces. When they connect to each other under pressure an electric signal can be created. Also pressure sensor can be built in between the surfaces. Cables can be led in the inside hollow. Undershirts, trousers, socks made from elastic knitted fabrics fit close to the body and if sensors are fastened on them they can transport signals of the movements and the state of the body (perspiring, pulse, breath frequency, etc.).

Remarkable developments are going on – also in Hungary – with knitted fabrics containing metallic fibre components for manufacture of protective underwear against electromagnetic radiation as well as with other types of underwear that contain modacrylic or carbon fibres to make the knitted garments flame retardant. Socks made from heat resistant aramide fibres do good service on hot workplaces. On the recent Technical textile in 2009 a knitting factory presented a complete set of knitted underwear (long-sleeve shirt, trousers, socks, a) b) c)
Figure 8: Knitted implants
a) Artifitial blood vessel [6], b) surgical mesh [8], c) artificial heart valve [7]

hood) made of a special blending of modacrylic, aramide and cotton fibres to be worn in hot work environment. An other set of knitted underwear was made of antistatic polyester completed by antibacterial treatment.

3. CONCLUSIONS
All of these examples prove that there are very many possibilities for the European knitting industry to renew. Hungary has established, under the umbrella of the Hungarian Society of Textile Technology and Science, the National Technology Platform for Renewal of the Textile and Clothing Industry (TEXPLAT), joining the Technology Platforms created by the European Union. Aim of the European Union with this initiative was to strengthen the research and development activity and to speed up the realization of results of innovation in order to react successfully to the challenge of global competition. One of these European Platforms is the European Technology Platform for the Future of the Textile and Clothing Industry (ETP-FTC) – this is the background of the Hungarian project.

Within this project the Hungarian Society of Textile Technology and Science prepared in 2009 a Strategic

Plan for the research, development and innovation of the Hungarian textile and clothing industry. In this plan all the possible scopes of development were examined and evaluated. Many proposals have been

formulated also for the knitting industry, most of them are in connection with the subjects expounded above. Our opinion and the proposals have been collected in a study presented to the concerning government office, calling the officials’ attention to the aspect that the Hungarian textile and clothing industry could chose a completely new way for developing and it must not be considered as subject of write-off. The next step is going on this year: we have to discuss with entrepreneurs what can be really put into practise from our proposals. They are in difficult position nowadays, the Hungarian economy is not on the top and only few companies of the textile and clothing industry are able to invest new technology. However, there are also good examples and we do hope that some of the possible solutions will be realized in the near future.

4. REFERENCES
  1. AVR – Allgemeiner Vliesstoff-Report, 2007. No. 3.
  2. Liba – New double needle bar knitting machine for technical textiles. Melliand International, 2008. No. 2. p. 105 
  3. Kanakaraj, P.; Anbumani, N.: 3D knitted spacer fabrics and their application. Melliand International, 2007. No. 1. pp. 47–52.
  4.  http://www.mayercie.de/en/news/43_1687.htm Accessed: 2009-01-27 
  5. Karl Mayer’s leaflets
  6. www.goremedical.com/en/file/73641.pdf Accessed: 2009-04-09 
  7. http://www.ismaap.org/81.0.html Accessed: 2009-04-06 
  8. http://www.tmte.hu/11kiadvanyok/111matete/111_2009_04_pdf/133_Techtextil.pdf Accessed: 2010-02 
 

Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Wash

Thursday 26 December 2013

Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Wash
Md. Mizanur Rahman. 
Daffodil International University.
Email: mizante16diu@gmail.com
Mobile: 01673926384
 



Introduction:
The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. The direction in fashion is varied across all areas particularly in denim dry process, whether worn or torn to wrinkled or pressed; these trends can appeal to a wide range of consumers. These can be achieved by variety of denim dry processing techniques which are mainly dependant on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producing different wash-down looks to the denim fabrics. Hot spots are heavy/intense area on thigh or knee, which is made purposely to create used-look & on knee area if any whiskers lines are there, called knee star.[1]

Different types of Dry process for Denim Wash

Whiskering:
whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look garment. The idea of whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and front thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding consequential to fabric, body shape of user or sitting posture. It is also known as Cat’s Whisker.[2]

Picture: Whiskers on Jeans
Whiskering Process:
Various methods are designed to create this impression on jeans. Such as:-
  • Mostly rubber balloons are available with different pattern designs. Garments are mounted on balloons and filled with air to get impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully with sand paper on engraved pattern lines. This operation requires high skilled labor and who can handle uniformity and sequence in whisker line. Fabric may damage during rubbing if care is not taken. This method is famous for high quality and cost effectiveness. 
Picture: Producing Wiskering Effect on Denim
  • Sometimes separate patterns are made and fixed on balloons to make mustaches. These patterns are made of thin rubber sheets and electric wires or rubber cords and pasted on balloons for pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to work in that way but it is not much successful for broad lines.
  • Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers impression making. This idea is very simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave them with blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific area to draw this impression on garment. For its low cost patterns, it is most frequently used in small industries especially where the production is not consistent to style.
Fig: Machines to produce wiskering effect
  • In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp edge rolled on fine wood sticks of pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution, placement and pattern must be marked on garment, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment.[3]
Sand Blasting:
Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect appearing is very similar to the worn out jeans. Sand blast provides a very uniform result, which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effect.

High pressure of air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it is always recommended to fix the gun in appropriate stands rather than placing it on shoulders or using it with bare hands. On some fabrics sand blasting is not successful for it covers the characteristics of fabric. Especially in fabrics, which are famous for slob patterns it flattens the look. Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Some time full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas.[4]
Picture: Sand Blasting effects on Jeans
Procedure of Sand Blasting:
  • Individual garment to be processed is taken on a table.
  • Air compressor is started and pressure to be maintained between 3 – 4 kg/sq.cm.
  • Air compressor then stores air in the machine cylinder. Aluminum sand or silicon sand, Al2(SiO4)3, is then taken in the chamber of the blasting machine.
  • Sand and compressed air are then sprayed over the garments at specific points at 10-200 angle by hand spray pipe. 
Picture: Produce Sand Blasting effect on Jeans
  • Sands pass into the machine by regulating system.
  • The machine comprises a blasting regulator and a hand regulator to control the amount of sand and compressed air respectively.
  • The angle of sand blowing is very important. Higher the blowing angle, higher the fading effect and higher the risk of fabric damage.
  • Fading is done on pre-marked areas.
  • Sandblasting is a hazardous technique and therefore, the area should be isolated from other working areas.
  • Handling of sandblasting gun is risky therefore, operators should use safety equipments like hand gloves, mask and gown. Production/hour/gun varies from 25 – 45 garments depending upon the degree of fading or extent of fading to be attained. 
Picture: Sand-Blasting, Air Compressor with Nozzle

  • The faded garments are cleaned by shaking manually. After sandblasting, garments are washed and the technique is being followed may be normal, bleach or bio-stone.[5]
Potassium permanganate spray (P.P Spray):
Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in market for neutralization process like sodium Meta bisulfate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.

Potassium permanganate sprays concentrations ranges from .25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires high concentrations to treat with.
Picture: P.P effect on Jeans
Process of P.P Spray:
1. Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are used for different sizes and styles, like for kids, men’s, trousers, jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is further treated with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to main drain. But where the potassium permanganate spray is used in low concentrations then there is now need to treat shower water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed water is rather useful for water reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free.
Fig: Before pp spray and after pp spray denim
2. Garments are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray process are as follows:
  • Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect whereas distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to two and a half feet. 
  • Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through KMnO4 drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required. 
  • Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: This will control the extent of brightness.[6]
Potassium Permanganate Sponging/ Brushing:
PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by sponges dipped in to PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look.[7]

In usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are modified by cutting hairs in different shapes to produce new styles. Rather towels, sponges, straw bunches or other objects are also used to create effects. What it is seen, is that most merging and beautiful effects are created with towel. Towel dipped in solution are drawn over the garment very lightly. This produces random effect and looks great with dark washes in contrast.[8]

This process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed by immediate neutralization.

Picture: P.P effects on Jeans
Procedure of P.P Sponging/ Brushing:
  • Prepare Potassium Permanganate solution.(P.P 20%,water 80%).
  • Take the solution in a tray or bowl.
  • Take a rubber board.
  • Then take a jeans trouser & place the rubber board inside the leg panel of the trouser.
  • Now place the trouser with rubber board on a flat table & sponged or rubbed P.P on apparel surface.
  • Then color will faded.
  • After this process wet process essential (detergent/bleach/enzyme wash).
Destroyed Denim:
One of the most popular distressing effects currently , ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique & different than others.[9]

Different types of machine used for destroy the garments. Such as-

  • Grinding Machine.
  • Emery Cloth.
  • Hacksaw Blade.
  • Needle.
  • Knife etc.
Picture: Destroyed Jeans
Process of Destroyed Denim:
  • We can make holes in jeans by overdoing different methods. The trick is to make the holes look natural. Grind away at the fabric slowly. Try not to localize the worn area, spread it with diminishing wear the further we get from the intended hole. 
Picture: Process of Destroyed Jeans
  • The area around the hole should be worn out as well as bleached to further blend the hole with the surrounding fabric. “Finish” the edges with a pumice stone or sandpaper dampened in bleach. Also dampening a sponge with bleach and applying it to the outer edges of the hole will add to the natural worn look. 
  • Ripped jeans are a bit different. The rip is not necessarily from wear, and should not look the same as a worn out hole. 
  • It is important that what types of look we want to see on our denim. It is recommend to use a sharp pocket knife. Be careful, they are very sharp. Rub the blade of the knife perpendicular to the line of the rip that we want. Continue until we create a slit, and then fray the edges, exposing the threads that are perpendicular to the rip. Do this until the hole is the size that we want and the edges are fuzzy. A wash and a dry will further mess up the edge. To some extent this will control further fraying. 
  • To reinforce this newly created hole, turn your pants inside out and place an adequately cut piece of fabric around it and sew it. An iron on will work as well, but the stitching, done either by hand or with a sewing machine, will make it look much better. 
  • It is preferred that not too many holes, 3 to 5 should be enough. The current trend, however, seems to be for smaller holes.[10]
The scope of denim dry process is very broad. Only innovative products will be able to open up new markets and new horizons for denim industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in further research and development. Globalization has opened the door to competition at the highest level. Every industry should now produce products that are best in terms of quality and price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive and prosper.

References:
  1. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/38/3762/denim-dry-finishing1.as
  2. http://www.denimhelp.com/whiskers-on-jeans/
  3. http://learnapparel.blogspot.com/2013/02/dry-process-on-denim-part-2.html
  4. http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4330
  5. http://learnapparel.blogspot.com/2013/02/dry-process-on-denim-part-1.html
  6. https://sites.google.com/site/denimwashescollections/dry-process
  7. http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/denim-dry-processing-for-creating- vintage-jeans/
  8. https://sites.google.com/site/denimwashescollections/dry-process
  9. http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/denim-dry-processing-for- creating-vintage-jeans/
  10. http://learnapparel.blogspot.com/2013/02/dry-process-on-denim-part-4.html
 

Future Trends and Recommendations For Sri Lanka Apparel Industry

Tuesday 24 December 2013

Future Trends & Recommendations For Sri Lankan Apparel Industry
Harshani Wijendra
Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel Technology (SLITA)
Email: harshani_bipasha@yahoo.com




The future of the Sri Lankan apparel industry will depend on how successfully the Sri Lankan momentum is maintained internationally and also on the progress of building a competitive edge in the international markets. In the past, our country has always survived among the other competing countries that were benefited by quotas, reduced labour cost, government incentives etc. The current context the “Competitiveness” is defined as, emanating from value addition, such as targeting specialized markets, adding unique features to products, product & service differentiation, and improving product quality etc.
 Sri Lankan apparel Industry
There has to be some extent of emulation of the strategies adopted by the other competing countries. With the intension of penetrating into new markets, the industry should adopt strategies to reduce cost of production, improve productivity, train and develop labour skills, enhance and encourage local & foreign investment, more product focus, investment in new technology etc. In par with the above, the government too must improve the infrastructure facilities and ensure minimum disruption to the work environment to support to maximize the garment production and export volumes.

Even though the cheap labour encouraged the garment production and the granting of quota system to the local apparel industry in the past, the cheap labour factor is not in existence anymore as compared with emerging markets of China, Vietnam, and Bangladesh etc. It is much advisable that concentration is placed on the labour cost per product than the labour cost per hour to thrive in the future.

The high literacy rate and the easily trainable work force are advantages possessed by the country. Therefore, it should pave the path to provide more training institutions to facilitate a higher quality and productivity in the industry.

The productivity and efficiency of labour is also associated with the introduction and development of new technological usage. The key elements of efficiency improvement being, the proper time management, collection of information on production, detect errors and wastages, work measurement etc. which can be improved with the advance technological compliance. Improving health and safety, building environmental friendly work practices, can move the local industry ahead of most of the other neighboring competitors. The industry should adhere and comply with certifications such as Eco-Labeling, ISO 9,000 and ISO 14,000, to enter the new markets enabling to build the better brad image.

The country is at a geographical disadvantage, as it is far from the industry’s main markets. The lead time of the industry is quite high compared to the western competitors such as Mexico. This could be eliminated by focusing on new markets with lesser lead times and by usage of air freight for faster delivery.

The raw material base of the industry should be strengthened by improved relations with the world class fabric and accessory producers. Also by enhancing and encouraging foreign investments for the raw material and accessory producers locally.

In elaborating further, less political intervention in labour matters, improved and consistent macroeconomic environment, international policy negotiations, better coordination with the industry producers, would be encouraging to develop a more conducive environment for industry growth in future.

SWOT Analysis for the Apparel Industry of Sri Lanka

Monday 23 December 2013

SWOT FOR THE SRI LANKAN APPAREL INDUSTRY
Harshani Wijendra
Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel Technology (SLITA)
Email: harshani_bipasha@yahoo.com




SWOT Analysis:

SWOT analysis is an analytical method/tool which is used to identify and categories significant internal (Strengths and Weaknesses) and external (Opportunities and Threats) factors faced either in a particular arena, such as an organisation, or a territory, such as a region, nation, or city.
Sri Lankan Apparel Industry
It provides information that is helpful in matching the firms’ resources and capabilities to the competitive environment in which it operates and is therefore an important contribution to the strategic planning process.

It should not be viewed as a static method with emphasis solely on its output, but should be used as a dynamic part of the management and business development process.

Effect on Sri Lankan Apparel Industry:

Strengths: The product quality level for the current market segments is considered high Reputation as a country which follows labour laws and good working conditions. The product price ranks second with large customers confirming that price quality relation of Sri Lanka is good on time delivery is the third best strength with effort towards reducing lead-times. Availability of skilled labour, educated and trainable work force and management of production capacity and ability to handle high volume orders are also considered strengths the Sri Lankan industry presently possesses. Apart from those the geographical size of the country facilitates easy movement within the country serves a further advantage.

Weaknesses: The weaknesses in the Sri Lankan industry can be listed down as follows;
  1. Lack of marketing skills with over dependence on buying officers, and allocation of quotas.
  2. Low level of marketing information, and knowledge about export marketing with hardly any marketing activities.
  3. Lack of fabric base and over dependence on input suppliers with long lead times
  4. Lack of a strong work ethic along with high absenteeism and labour turn over.
  5. Warm climatic condition of the country which reduces productivity
  6. Increasing cost of labour and availability of employment in other industries and foreign employment opportunities
Opportunities: To overcome the loss of orders due to the expiry of Multi Fibre Arrangement after year 2005, the position in the traditional export markets in the USA and UK by should be strengthened by establishing a strong relationship with distributors and buyers and developing an expansion strategy for the markets with good potential. Thereafter the opportunity exists to gain a higher market share by implementing an aggressive marketing strategy in the markets, where Sri Lanka has a weak positioning. Further there is a very good opportunity to capture a bigger market share in the EU: As at present Sri Lanka is not with in first 15 exporters to the EU.

Further opportunities exists in capturing the South Asian Market especially the High Price garments with designer wear and Intimate garments, a market where Sri Lankan Manufactures are now experts in producing and marketing. The available free trade agreements should be exploited in trade between India and Pakistan to export finished garments and to import fabric and accessories. It is also important to establish and identity for of Sri Lanka as a destination, which manufactures very high quality garments

Threats: The threats to the present Garment Industry are as follows;
  1. An intensification of the competition, especially from the sub Asian member countries, before and after the phasing out of the MFA.
  2. Improvement of the former socialist economies, who have a good textile industry and a large domestic Market which are highly potential and geared to meet the quality and delivery requirements especially from EU.
  3. The arrival of new competitors in the Asian sub-continent such as Vietnam, Cambodia, Myanmar and Laos.
  4. Special advantages created for the USA market by the NAFTA, consolidation and other regional economic cooperation
  5. The increase in Sri Lanka’s labour costs at a faster pace than productivity
  6. The necessity to reduce lead time from the manufactures to the shop, and the distant suppliers’ inability to deliver the value added garments on time
  7. Successive government has not addressed the issue of low productivity, and even at this stage a government funded garment manufacturing and production management training institute has not been established and this possess a threat to the industry’s future
  8. Geographical location of the country. Sri Lanka is located at the furthest end of the Indian Ocean, when compared with other competitive garment exporting countries, which export to the USA, EU and other wealthy nations. Almost all the countries, which are geographically located close to Sri Lanka, are under developed and, low income countries struggling to survive.