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Application of AutoCad in Apparel Industry

Friday 31 January 2014

Introduction:
Computer aided design jobs have also been adopted in the modern textile industry. Although the term textile originally referred only to woven fabrics, those made by weaving year on a loom, today the textile industry includes apparel industry and fashion designing goods, knitted goods, braids, and other fabrics that are made from fibers, yarns, and other materials which are technologically aided with new designs. CAD helps to visualize and see their imaginative design in final form without producing any sample swatch. Sometimes, The customers too provide ideas for designing according to their particular requirement. These are in the form of painted artwork or fabric samples and sometimes film negatives. The textile designers, with the help of CAD, convert them into workable designs. For this to be done, the sample is scanned with the help of either scanners or digital cameras and then they are edited to obtain the final design.
  • AutoCAD is a vector-based drawing, all the drawing is based on X, Y co-ordinate (2D or 3D).
  • It is highly accuracy, ability to work in full scale (zoom in/out), rework design ideas and make changes instantly.
In Sketching:
It is a conceptual process, art work for design purpose. The designer starts drawing from rough sketches which he later needs to trim in order to decide about the final sketches. Sketching is one of the most important steps in designing because the designer has to work through his creativity and knowledge of the trends in order to create something unique yet acceptable. CAD has made sketching faster and easier but the major advantage of using CAD in sketches comes from the many handy tools that are available in CAD software that are unable to be used in manual drawing method. In CAD the designer can draw and erase and than again draw and erase and mix ‘n match and do and redo.

Full Size Sketch/Design can be made by AutoCAD given below:
Design by AutoCad
Pattern Making:
A technical drawing with measurements, seam allowance for garment making.
Pattern Making by Autocad
Grading Patterns:
A modification of pattern making for different sizes based on grading rules.

Making Markers:
A process to arrange all fabric pieces (front/back/sleeve) with different sizes (S/M/L/XL) on cutting table for cutting.

In Apparel Production:
When production starts the designer or the producer of the garments visualizes in mind the final product, how it will look and if there are any flaws in the sketches he can modify them. The software which can enable designer to design the 3-D image of the product on computer screen and see the pros and cons of his idea. This technology is being used by so many fields because of its huge scope and benefits. The designer can design the whole dress with prints, colors, trims, accessories and embellishments on computer to look for any flaws in it.

Machines which cut, sew, grade and mark fabrics can be interfaced with computer to work efficiently. The time taken to finish each of these tasks is reduced in this way and even less labor is required because a single person can handle these machines; whereby in manual methods large number of labor is required to cut, sew or grade fabric.

Recent Development of Carding Machine

Thursday 30 January 2014

Background of Carding Machine:
In 1748 Lewis Paul of Birmingham, England invented the hand driven carding machine . The name card is derived from the latin “Carduus. It mans thistle, the spiked fruit of which was used for plucking fibred apart in earlier time.

The proverbs of experts,
  • “The card is the heart of the spinning mill”
  • ‘Well-carded is half-demonstrate the immense significance of carding for the final result of the spinning operation.
These proverbs demonstrate the immense significance of carding for the final result of the spinning operation. The importance of carding is still greater where new spinning systems are concerned. The considerable influence of the card on yarn quality arises from the very complex series of events in the process itself, and also from the pressure to adopt an extremely high production rate on economic ground.

Carding is defined s the reduction of entangled mass of fibers to filmy web by working them between two closely spaced relatively moving surfaces clothed with sharp points. It is a preliminary process in spun yarn technology just after blow room process.

Recent Developments of Carding Machine:

In previous discussed that on 1748 Lewis Paul of Birmingham, England invented the hand driven carding machine. This carding machine has been added many values and developed for the requirement of spinners.
Modern Carding Machine
The most recent developments are given below:
  • Higher production rate up to 250 kg/hour
  • Direct feeding system FBK: Chute feed
  • Feed rate control system: CFD(CORRECTA FEED)
  • Multiple licker-in system: 3 Licker-in
  • Precision Flat Setting System PFS
  • Precision Mote Knife Setting System PMS
  • Aluminum flats without bolted connection
  • Computer control with Touch Screen
  • Electronic Flat Measuring System FLATCONTROL TC-NCT
  • ON-line nep counting with NEPCONTROL TCC-NCT
  • Waste quality measuring with WASTECONTROL TC-WCT
  • Digitally controlled, maintenance-free servodrives
  • Integrated Carding Grinding system:
  • IGS Tops
  • IGS Clssic
  • Magnetic flat bar: MAGNA TOP
  • Integrated and continuous suction system
  • Larger can size: 1000X1200 mm
  • Roller doffing system
GRINDING & ITS IMPORTANCE:
There are three areas in any carding machine. These are:
  1. Opening & Cleaning area
  2. Carding area
  3. Sliver formation
The main segments of carding machine are covered by card clothing. These metal cloth with sharp wire. The wire looses its sharpness due to metal to metal or metal to fibre friction. That’s why it needs re-sharpening. The process re- sharpening he car clothing wire is called

GRINDING
The performance of card clothing reduces continuously with the processing of materials. The operating life of clothing expressed in terms of the total throughput or material. For the cylinder it normally lies between 300 tons to 600 tons. But it can be higher for some circumstances. The amount of fibre, type of fibre etc. could be the reason. Processing of fibers strongly wears down the teeth-they become rounded of the sliver. The points must therefore be sharpened from time to time, in order to give a better shape to the edges by grinding them. Each grinding operation reduces the number of neps, but the level nerve returns to that prior to the preceding grind.The deterioration in quality from one grinding interval to the nest arises from the fact that the teeth are ground down to successively lower heights, the land at the teet points become stadily larger, and softer metal layers are gradually exposed. The interval is best selected in dependence upon the nep limit. The doffer clothing works much less than that of the cylinder works. That’s why it should be ground less frequently except when synthetic fibres are being processed.The clothing on the Taker- in should not be ground. It should be renewed after a throughput of 100 tons to 200 tons. The grinding tools: There are types of grinding tools are commonly in use.

These are:

  • The full-width grinding roller
  • The traversing grinding disc
Developments in Licker-in Section of Carding Machine:
Automation, higher production and improved quality of the products are the requisite of any recent developments.

Chute feeding is a recent development in feeding small tufts of cotton fibres directly from blow room to a series of cards, arranged in a circuit through ducts and chutes. Already we have seen the working of chute feeding system in a third unit.. In this unit, we shall discuss some other developments in licker-in section of carding one by one in the following pages.

The objects of major developments in licker in section that have taken place are
  • To improve the opening of tuft at high rate of feed in H. P card.
  • To distribute the tufts as evenly as possible on the cylinder.
  • To extract the maximum trash with minimum loss of spinnable fibres.
Following are the developments that have taken place in the licker-in section.
  1. Card analyser
  2. Development in place of mote knife
  3. Shirley modification.
  4. Fibre retriever.
Card Analyzer or Uni Opener:
M/S. Nagoya a leading card clothing manufacturer of Japan has offered an evener roller under the trade name of card Analyser. This may also be called as uniopener. As shown in fig, this evener roller is placed above the licker in. It opens the large unopened tufts released by the licker-in and also remove the excess fibres on the cylinder which is returned to the feed roller again through a space provided between the taker-in and its cover. Thus it helps to feed the tufts as evenly as possible on the cylinder. It is claimed that the neps formation and the waste are reduced.
Fig: Card analyzer or uni opener
Development in Place of Mote Knife:
M/S. Mafatlal Engineering has introduced comb bar and wast control knife attachment in their super card in place of mot knives, as shown in fig.
Development in Place of Mote Knife
The arrangement consists of a small diameter cylinder clothed with coarse pitch wire. It replaces conventional mote knives when processing cotton and is positioned directly under the feed plate nose so that the material feed is immediately subjected to carding action. This opens the cotton and gives high trash yield by permitting the trash to separate from the main stream of fibre in the large free space following the comb bar.

Shirley Modification :
The essential changes in the cleaning region are: 1. The replacement of conventional mote knives by a deflector plate which is provided under side of the feed plate.
Shirley Modification
The taker-in grid is replaced by a shorter grid usually 7” long, incorporating 3 bars and the normal perforations. & The Setting between grid and taker-in is made wider than the conventional card. A safety guard is fitted under the feed plate to cover the exposed portion of the taker-in. For short staple cotton 8” grid is usually suitable, for medium 7” grid and for long staple cotton 6” grid may be employed.

Advantages of Shirley Modification:
  1. The amount of trash passed on to the cylinder was 31% less than normal resulted in cleaner sliver.
  2. The dust generated during carding -is reduced.
  3. The life of the metallic clothing is increased due to less trash on cylinder.
  4. Increases the trash extraction of 10% with 24% less lint loss than conventional card.
Fiber Retriever :
This arrangement reduce the loss of spendable fibers.
Fiber Retriever
The nose of the fibre retriever deflects the heavier trash particles, downwards away from the licker-in. Air drawn in by the fast rotating licker-in is channelled between the buffle plates of fibre retriever, so that the trash particles fall downwards in the up current of air, which detaches any spinnable fibre entangled with the trash particles and carries the good fibres back to the licker-in. It is claimed that as much as 1 % waste is reduced.

Dust Extraction Systems in Carding

The high pressure area in the card-at the junction between cylinder and flats at taken-in end-causes ejection of dust over top of the back plate and between the flats. Another high pressure area- at the junction between the main cylinder and doffer -leads to ejection of dusty air over the doffer Doffer comb produces air turbulences, which causes dust to rise and at the calender roller the air that is mixed with the cotton in the web is squeezed out, together with dust and fly. Air escaping into the atmosphere from the high pressure zone carries dust with it and is responsible for most of the dust in the card room. Modern HP cards are equipped with the dust and fly collector such as shirley pressure point system for extracting the dust, fly and fibres which are collected in a special chamber without rendering unhygienic the atmosphere in the card room.

This has low running cost and useful
  1. To prevent the ejection of dust by suitably covering the regions of the machine where the dust is liberated.
  2. To move the dust from several forces to a central region from which it can be conveniently removed.
An Exhaust fan, through suitable hoods fitted to critical regions of the card draw off air with fly and dust and after separating these from air, pure air is returned to the department. The dust passing through the slits between the flats is retained (and then exhausted) by a flexible metal sheet across the full width of flats and placed inside the flat chain to cover about 2/3 of the flats.
Shirley pressure point exhaust system
The region where flats take position on the bend is also boxed in and exhausted. A deflector shield is fitted over the doffer comb and extends forward to the calender roller and the region under the calender roll is boxed in to collect the fly that falls from the under side of web. A screen of perforated metal is fixed in front of the flat cleaning brush to catch any fly released there, and a similar screen is fitted on the coiler where the sliver turns through a right angle to proceed to the can. The complete shirley pressure point system reduces the dust load in the card room atmosphere by about 90%.

Following are the improved waste removal system of latest high production carding,

Internal Suction System:
The integral fan for internal suction creates a vacuum with in the outer shell. Thus no dust from the card escapes into. the workroom. the suction is very effective in the removal or fly waste, dust and micro dust which are released during carding. Dust and wastes are removed at all points of occurence, feed, flat entry, flar strips, web delivery and waste chamber under the card. The internal suction operates continuously there by maintaining constant autodymanic conditions in the card.

The exhaust air is conveyed to air conditioning system. The amount of exhaust air is 2300 m3/h per card. Under card waste removal system.: . The under card waste are transferred by programmed periodic blasts of compressed air into the vicinity of a suction hood and collected in the rear most filter of the two filters built into the outer shell. The over card wastes including flat strips are collected in the foremost filter. The intermittently acting central suction system programmed to empty first the foremost filter and then the rear most filter. The card can be connected to a continuously acting suction system in which case there is no need for fan and filters. manual cleaning of filter is necessary in the absence of central suction system.

Different Working Parts of Carding Machine: 
Fiber Preparation:
Fig: Fiber preparation
Card Preparation:
Card Preparation
Draw Frame :
Draw Frame
Sliver Focus:
Sliver Focus
Modern Carding Machine :
Modern Carding Machine
Conclusion:
Carding is the process of arranging the fiber in parallel fusion. This is necessary for all staple fiber. Otherwise it would be impossible to produce fine yarn. Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed. The fiber must be in different angle & they must be straight turned. The card is the hard of the spinning mill & well carded is half spun. Demonstrated the immersed significance of carding for the final of opening operation.

Automation in Warping and Sizing Process

Tuesday 28 January 2014

Automation in Warping Process:
Other typical features of a modern sectional wrapper are:
  • Feeler roller to apply material specific pressure to obtain exact cylindrical warp build-up;
  • Lease and sizing band magazines
  • Constant warp tension over the full warp width;
  • Automatic section positioning with photo-optical section width measurement;
  • Pneumatic stop brakes;
  • Warp tension regulation for uniform build-up; and
  • Automatic warp beam loading, doffing and chucking.
  • Head stocks are equipped with advanced design features such as precision direct drive, advanced electronics, smooth doffing and programmable breaking
  • Stop motion sensors are used when yarn breaks.
  • Automatic creel movement
  • Yarn length measuring devices are used to measure the warp yarn length.
Figure : Automation in warping process
Automation in Sizing Process:
Sizing machine control systems provide a tool for management to insure that all warps are sized identically under standard operating conditions. These monitoring and control capabilities can be included in a computer network of a weaving mill. For years knitting machine manufacturers have been making excellent use of electronics to provide machines that are more automatic and versatile and many refinements of these advances have been made. These automatic machines are already ‘islands of automation’ that can be incorporated into a CIM network. Automated weaving plants are on the drawing boards. None is yet in operation but should be a reality within a few years. The six production steps winding, warping, sizing, weaving inspection and packing include 16 points of automation. Of these, 12 deal with materials handling or transport. Only four applications deal with automating the machine operations themselves. This includes automated process control on the slasher of
  • Automation on creel zone by pneumatic cylinder
  • Control the tension of yarn by sensors or pendulum roller
  • Control the temperature and level of size paste in size box
  • Control the temperature and level of size paste in size cooker
  • In drying zone, control the temperature
  • Control the percentage of moisture content by sensor
  • Control the headstock system
Figure: Automation in sizing process

Properties of Coconut/Coir Fiber | Manufacturing Process of CoconutFiber | Application of Coconut Fiber

What is coconut or coir fiber?
Coconut fiber is extracted from the outer shell of a coconut. It is the natural fiber of the coconut husk where it is a thick and coarse but durable fiber. The common name, scientific name and plant family of coconut fiber is Coir, Cocos nucifera and Arecaceae (Palm), respectively.

There are two types of coconut fibers, brown fiber extracted from matured coconuts and white fibers extracted from immature coconuts. Brown fibers are thick, strong and have high abrasion resistance. White fibers are smoother and finer, but also weaker. Both brown and white coir consist of fibers ranging in length from 4-12 in (10-30 cm). Those that are at least 8 in (20 cm) long are called bristle fiber. Shorter fibers, which are also finer in texture, are called mattress fiber. A 10-oz (300-g) coconut husk yields about 3 oz (80 g) of fiber, one-third of which is bristle fiber. Industries based on coir have developed in many coconut producing countries especially India, Tanzania, Kenya, Bangladesh, Burma, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Nigeria, Ghana etc.
Fig: Coconut Tree, Coconut and Coconut fibers
Chemical Composition of Coconut / Coir Fiber:
  • Lignin………………………..…45.84%
  • Cellulose…………………….…43.44%
  • Hemi-Cellulose………………………….00.25%
  • Pectin’s and related Compound…………03.00%
  • Water soluble…………………….05.25%
  • Ash……………………………….02.22%
Physical Properties of Coconut / Coir Fiber:
  • Length in inches…………6-8 
  • Density (g/cc)………………….1.40 
  • Tenacity (g/Tex)………………10.0 
  • Breaking elongation%…………..30%
  • Diameter in mm………….0.1 to 1.5 
  • Rigidity of Modulus……….1.8924 dyne/cm2 
  • Swelling in water (diameter)…………5%
  • Moisture at 65% RH…………10.50%
Manufacturing Process of Coconut Fiber:

Harvesting and husking of coconut:
Fig: Husking of coconut by Machine.
The fruits are harvested when still green to obtain the best quality coir. Husk usually forms 35.45 percent of the weight of the whole nut, when ripe. Husks from ten to eleven month old nuts have been found to give superior quality fiber possessing a golden yellow color. The fiber from the husk is extracted on a commercial scale, either by natural retting process or by mechanical decortication.

Retting of coconut fiber:
Fig: Retting of coconut fiber.
Retting is a curing process during which the husks are kept in an environment that encourages the action of naturally occurring microbes. This action partially decomposes the husk’s pulp, allowing it to be separated into coir fibers and a residue called coir pith. Freshwater retting is used for fully ripe coconut husks, and saltwater retting is used for green husks.
  • For freshwater retting, ripe husks are buried in pits dug along riverbanks, immersed in water-filled concrete tanks, or suspended by nets in a river and weighted to keep them submerged. The husks typically soak at least six months. 

  • For saltwater retting, green husks are soaked in seawater or artificially salinated fresh water. Often this is accomplished by placing them in pits along riverbanks near the ocean, where tidal action alternately covers them with sea water and rinses them with river water. Saltwater retting usually takes eight to 10 months, although adding the proper bacteria to the water can shorten the retting period to a few days. 

  • Mechanical techniques have recently been developed to hasten or eliminate retting. Ripe husks can be processed in crushing machines after being retted for only seven to 10 days. Immature husks can be dry milled without any retting. After passing through the crushing machine, these green husks need only be dampened with water or soaked one to two days.
Extraction of Fiber:
Fig: Extraction of coconut fiber.
After retting, the husks are taken out of water and washed. Outer skin peeled of, placed on wooden blocks and beaten with a wooden mallet for separating the fibers from the pith. After fibers are separated from the pith, these are cleaned and then spread on shade for drying. The fibers spread for drying are occasionally beaten and tossed up with poles to remove the remnants of pith and impurities still adhering to the fiber.

Spinning:
Spinning of coir yarn is mainly a cottage industry in India and abroad. It is produced either by wheel spinning or hand spinning or mechanized spinning. Handspun yarn is soft and the twist and thickness are even. Wheel spun yarn has a hard twist; it is stronger and more uniform in size and twist than handspun yarn. The classification of coir yarn is based on variations of color, twist, pitch, scorage etc. and also area of production like; Anjengo, Aratony, Alapat, Beach, Rope yarn, Parur, Muppiri etc.

Weaving:
Coir yarn is treated with dilute solution of sulphuric acid, which improves its color and gives a certain amount of brightness for the production of mats, Coir mats, fiber mats, especially mats, Mattings, rugs, mourzouks, carpets etc.

Dyeing and Printing:
Color and design play an important part in the marketing of coir products. Dyed yarn is exported to Australia for the manufacture of matting. The following dye stuffs are employed in coir dyeing. Chrysodin YS, Bismarck Brown, Methyl Violet, Malachite Green, Magenta, Naphthalene orange, Naphthalene Red, Naphthalene Green etc.

Application of Coconut Fiber:
  • White coir spun into yarn is used in the manufacture of rope and, thanks to its strong resistance to salt water, in fishing nets.
    Carpet

  • Brown coir is used in sacking, brushes, doormats, rugs, mattresses, insulation panels and packaging. In Europe, the automobile industry upholsters cars with pads of brown coir bonded with rubber latex.
    Sacking

  • Geotextiles made from coir mesh (at left) are durable, absorb water, resist sunlight, facilitate seed germination, and are 100% biodegradable.
    Geotextiles

  • Coir peat, a residue of milling, is gaining economic importance as mulch, soil treatment and a hydroponic growth medium.
    Soil treatment material

  • Coir Fiber Liners that are environment friendly products and are used for indoor gardening. These products offer an outstanding drainage and aeration to roots and prevent the plant from root rot.
Fig Coir fiber tray.

Automation in Winding Process

Sunday 26 January 2014

Automation in Winding Process

Hafiz Abdul Mannan
National Textile University, Pakistan
Phone: 0092-3236052101






Automation Process in Winding:
The automation in winding increase the winding efficiency. Huge amount of yarn are winded than conventional system of winding for using automation. Labor cost also decrease by the using automation in winding. In another article, automation in weaving has discussed details.
Automation in Winding Process
1. Drum traverse system
  • The precise slit stainless drum guides the threads to wind up.
  • Cone winding process
  • Drum with special hardened polish treatment is good for high speed running and it can also lower the noise.
2. Individual touch panel control system
  • Preset the yarn length on touch panel of the cross cone winder, then the computer will measure it with compensates length adjustment. It’s accurate and reliable.
  • Preset the yarn deliver speed from 400~1400 meters per minute on touch panel and then run the constant yarn speed.
  • Preset the lube roller speed from 0~50 RPM for the lubricant percentages of the threads. The uniform lubricant throughout the packages of threads lubricated due to the constant yarn deliver speed.
  • Preset the product quantity; make it easy to manage the production efficiently.
3. Automatic bobbin magazine device
  • With non-bobbin detector and auto-stop system, the cone winder machine will shutdown when it stops bobbing.
4. Auto-Doffing and control system
  • Mechanical doffing system, precise and durable.
  • Doffing time 7~10 seconds.
5. Electronic magnetic tension device
  • Electronic magnetic tension controls the tension throughout the cycle of winding process to get the good quality of packages.
6. Auto circulating lube system and tank (Optional)
  • Auto circulating lube system filters the floss to ensure the lubricant quality given to lube with threads.
  • One lube tank can connect 20 spindles of 4 machines.
  • Hot lube system with heater control panel are available with option.
  • Density adjusting device, precise, stable and reliable.
  • With our yarn broke sensor, the automatic cone winder will stop automatically when the yarn is broken.
  • Computer auto-detect trouble happened and then display the reasons by caption, it’s easy to maintain the condition of machine.
  • Suitable for all sewing thread winding and available from 20/6 to 60/2 yarn counts. Nylon thread and viscose rayon thread…etc.
  • We can control the motor speed as its rpm
  • We can control package size automatically
  • We can control yarn clearing as thick ,thin places or slubs through yarn diameter
  • We can splice automatically if yarn breaks
  • We can change empty cones in cone magazine automatically. 
 

Mechanics of Fibrous Structure

Saturday 25 January 2014

Mechanics of Fibrous Structure of Boxing Gloves

Sikander Anwer
Department in Textile Engineering
University of Management & Technology, Lahore, Pakistan
Cell: 0322-4875571 
Email:111811016@umt.edu.pk




Introduction:
I am supposed to design a boxing gloves, which are perfectly used by boxers for their purpose. A boxing gloves is a protective layer between punch and face, which stimulates the impact of a punch in it for damaging the face badly.
Design of boxing gloves
The boxing gloves which I used to made has following properties:
  • Compress-able
  • Comfortable
  • Fit-able
  • Anti-perspiration
  • Anti-bacterial
  • Bearable
  • Good grip
The composition of boxing gloves has several steps in which different stacking are used;

The first layer is the inner most layer which has to be in-contact with the skin. This layer should be absorbent, anti-bacterial, and tensionless. The layer would be of bamboo fiber which has an essential characteristic of environmental friendly.

The second layer should be bearable and water-repellent. It should be of cow hide leather which absorbs the stress and minimized the reaction of the impact.

The third layer should be more compactable, structural, water-repellent and compress-able. The layer should be of synthetic leather that cannot be damaged early and has to tolerate all the forces which boxer applies on it.

The last touch is of aesthetic performance it has good finishes, stretchable, long life, light weight and maintain the structure.

The limitations of the fabric are:
  • Max stress = 4.8263Mpa
  • Max speed= 16m/s
  • Weight= 110Kg
  • Momentum= 1760N/s
  • Compressive Strength= 48.26N
  • Young’s Modulus= 241.3 
a) Momentum= mass x velocity
= 110 x 16 
= 1760N/s

b) Strain= (lo – l) / lo
= (0.16 – 0.2) / 0.2 
= -0.2 (negative signs shows the Compression effect in Gloves)

c) Young’s Modulus= Stress/Strain
= 48.26/0.2 
= 241.3 

Phenolic Yellowing on Textiles

Friday 24 January 2014

Phenolic Yellowing on Textiles
Manoj Kumar
B.Tech in textile Chemistry
SSM COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING
Salem, Tamilnadu, India
Email: manossm.kumar@gmail.com





Yellowing In General:
  • The yellowing on textile is the main problem facing by the textile industries from long back. 
  • There are numerous factors are responsible for yellowing on textiles such as chemicals used on textiles during wet processing, fibers, atmospheric pollutants etc… 
    Phenolic Yellowing on Textiles
  • The most common yellowing on textile is phenolic yellowing also known as storage yellowing, ware house yellowing. 
  • The yellow stain occurs mainly on crease, folds can appear on white or light coloured fabric stored in certain plastic bags for sale.
Why Phenolic Yellowing Happening on Textiles?
  • The phenolic antioxidants present in the packing material along with exposure to oxides of nitrogen & alkali ph of the fabric or garment are responsible for yellowing. 
  • The antioxidents includes para-phenylenediamine(PPD) & Butylated hydroxytoulene(BHT),The oxides of nitrogen is the by product of combustion of petrol diesel etc…
How the Phenolic Yellowing will occur on Textile Goods:
  • The phenolic anti-oxidants present on the packing materials like plastic covers will migrate on textiles.
  • When the textiles get exposure with oxides of nitrogen present in the atmosphere along with the core alkali present on the textiles after textile wet processing will causes Phenolic yellowing.
How to Protect Textiles from Phenolic Yellowing:
  • Use BHT free Plastic bags for cover the Textiles
  • Neutralize the textiles after alkali wet processing treatment using Acetic acid or core alkali Neutralizer.
  • Keep the textile away from Oxides of nitrogen gases.
  • Finish the textile goods using Anti-Phenolic yellowing Textile finishing agents. 
Another article was published by same writer:
 

Properties of Banana Fiber | Manufacturing Process of Banana Fiber | Application of Banana Fiber

Thursday 23 January 2014

An Overview of Banana Fiber

Md. Ferdus Alam
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Mobile: 01925419270 
Email: Ferdus.j@gmail.com
Facebook: Ferdus Alam





What is Banana Fiber?
Banana plant or plantain plant not only gives the delicious fruit but it also provides textile fiber, the banana fiber. Banana fiber is natural fiber.
Fig: Banana Fibers.
Natural fibers present important advantages such as low density, appropriate stiffness and mechanical properties and high disposability and renewability. Moreover, they are recyclable and biodegradable. There has been lot of research on use of natural fibers in reinforcements. Banana fiber, a ligno-cellulosic fiber, obtained from the pseudo-stem of banana plant (Musa sepientum), is a bast fiber with relatively good mechanical properties. Banana plant is a large perennial herb with leaf sheaths that form pseudo stem. Its height can be 10-40 feet (3.0-12.2 meters) surrounding with 8-12 large leaves. The leaves are up to 9 feet long and 2 feet wide (2.7 meters and 0.61 meter). Banana plant is available throughout Thailand and Southeast Asian, India, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Hawaii, and some Pacific islands.
Fig: Banana plant or plantain plant.
Characteristics of Banana Fibers:
Banana fiber has its own physical and chemical characteristics and many other properties that make it a fine quality fiber.
  • Appearance of banana fiber is similar to that of bamboo fiber and ramie fiber, but its fineness and spinnability is better than the two.
  • The chemical composition of banana fiber is cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin.
  • It is highly strong fiber.
  • It has smaller elongation.
  • It has somewhat shiny appearance depending upon the extraction & spinning process.
  • It is light weight.
  • It has strong moisture absorption quality. It absorbs as well as releases moisture very fast.
  • It is bio- degradable and has no negative effect on environment and thus can be categorized as eco-friendly fiber.
  • Its average fineness is 2400Nm.
  • It can be spun through almost all the methods of spinning including ring spinning, open-end spinning, bast fiber spinning, and semi-worsted spinning among others.
Properties of Banana Fibers:
Tenacity
29.98 g/denier
Fineness
17.15
Moisture Regain
13.00%
Elongation
6.54
Alco-ben Extractives
1.70%
Total Cellulose
81.80%
Alpha Cellulose
61.50%
Residual Gum
41.90%
Lignin
15.00%
 
 
Banana Fiber Extraction Processing, Yarn Spinning & Weaving:
Fig: Extraction of Banana Fiber from bark of Banana plant.
The extraction of the natural fiber from the plant required certain care to avoid damage. In the present experiments, initially the banana plant sections were cut from the main stem of the plant and then rolled lightly to remove the excess moisture. Impurities in the rolled fibers such as pigments, broken fibers, coating of cellulose etc. were removed manually by means of comb, and then the fibers were cleaned and dried. This mechanical and manual extraction of banana fibers was tedious, time consuming, and caused damage to the fiber. Consequently, this type of technique cannot be recommended for industrial application. A special machine was designed and developed for the extraction of banana fibers in a mechanically automated manner. It consisted mainly of two horizontal beams whereby a carriage with an attached and specially designed comb, could move back and forth. The fiber extraction using this technique could be performed simply by placing a cleaned part of the banana stem on the fixed platform of the machine, and clamped at the ends by jaws. This eliminated relative movement of the stem and avoided premature breakage of the fibers. This was followed by cleaning and drying of the fibers in a chamber at 200 C for three hours. These fibers were then labeled and ready for lamination process.

After fiber is collected, the process goes to yarn spinning. The researcher investigated the traditional process, which use the filament yarns in weaving banana fabric. The finding showed that the convention process was very time-consuming, thus not appropriate for today’s use. Therefore, this research explored open-ended spinning process for yarn development. The fiber was cut in to 3-centimeter length for spinning process.

After yarn spinning, weaving is done in the looms as per normal process like any other material.
Fig: Spun yarn, weaving and Banana fabric.
Applications of Banana Fiber:
Fig: Uses of Banana fibers.
In the recent past, banana fiber had a very limited application and was primarily used for making items like ropes, mats, and some other composite materials. With the increasing environmental awareness and growing importance of eco-friendly fabrics, banana fiber has also been recognized for all its good qualities and now its application is increasing in other fields too such as apparel garments and home furnishings. However, in Japan, it is being used for making traditional dresses like kimono, and kamishimo since the Edo period (1600-1868). Due to its being lightweight and comfortable to wear, it is still preferred by people there as summer wear. Banana fiber is also used to make fine cushion covers, Necties, bags, table cloths, curtains etc. Rugs made from banana silk yarn fibers are also very popular world over.