February 2014

Dimensional Stability to Washing

Friday 28 February 2014

Dimensional stability:

Dimensional stability is the vital characteristics of a fabric. It is required to confirm about the dimensional stability of a dyed fabric. The measured dimensional stability of a fabric determines whether a fabric has the potential to retain its original shape and remain stable, indicating it will not bubble or sag over time, when applied over a substrate, and its suitability for a specified use.

Method : BS EN ISO 3759:1995, BS EN ISO 6330:2001

Purpose : To determine the changes in dimension and appearance of fabrics and garments to specific cleansing procedures.

Apparatus:

Marker pens (texpen, dalo or laundry pen)
Calibrated steel rules of appropriate lengths graduated in cm and mm.
Calibrated tape measure.
Ballast (Polyester make weights 200*200 mm).
Wascator washing machine.
Domestic tumble dryer.
Elna press (or similler).
Domestic steam iron.
Non Phosphate Detergent A, Sodium Perborate and TAED in a 77:20:3 ratio.

Specimen Preparation and Measurement:

Cut a fabric specimen 500*500 mm with the edges parallel to the length and width of the fabric. A template can be employed to assist this preparation, on these occasions align one vertical edge parallel to the length threads (ends).

Mark three pairs of reference marks in the length direction and three pairs in the width direction of the specimen such that each pair is approximately 350 mm apart (See the Diagram Below). Do not cut specimens closer than 50 mm to a selvedge or cut edge. Mark the warp (length) direction in the top left hand corner.

Lay the specimen flat and without stretching measure the distance between each pair of reference marks to the nearest mm.

Record each measurement in order L1, L2, L3, W1, W2, and W3.

Over lock all four sides of the specimen to prevent fraying,

For woven crinkle fabrics two 500 mm square specimens with reference marks 350 mm apart, measure the distance between the marks as in 2.1.3. Over lock the two pieces of fabric together down both length sides and over lock open both ends of tube of fabric, to prevent fraying. This preparation is to assist ironing which is a general requirement of woven crinkle fabrics.

Sample

Re-measurement and Appearance Assessment:

After the appropriate cleansing and drying procedure lay the specimen flat and without stretching, preferably in a conditioned atmosphere for a minimum of 4 hours (wool products 16 hours).
After conditioning the sample measure the distance between each pair of reference marks.
Record the appropriate measurement alongside the original measurement.

Working Process of Fabric Store Department in Apparel Industry

Thursday 27 February 2014

Store Department

For a bulk production industry it is essential to maintain a well-organized & well equipped inventory system. The main responsibility of this department is to store all the raw material necessary to produce garments. This department is sub divided into three sections.

Garment store room

Working Flowchart of Fabric Store Department:
They follow a strong and appropriate working procedure. Their work process flow is given below:

Working flowchart

Working Procedure:
Receiving Fabric roll
Woven fabrics are supplied in roll package. Once these rolls of fabric are delivered the store in-charge receives the incoming consignment. This is the first phenomenon which is done in fabric store.

In-house Inventory
Once these rolls are received, the store in-charge matches the packing list of the fabric consignment with the original quantity of the fabric rolls (i.e. fabric width, fabric length). He also keeps the all the record in a log book. This inventory maybe done alone by the store in-charge or with the presence of a representative of the fabric supplier.

Cutting for inspection
At the time of inventory a piece of fabric is cut form every roll. The piece is of full width of the fabric and of a length depending on buyer (i.e. for H&M 22 inch of length, for others 12 inch of length). These cut piece is send for inspection tests like shrinkage, blanket making for shade segregation.

Costing of Long Sleeve Shirt (Woven)

Wednesday 26 February 2014

Costing of Long Sleeve Shirt (Woven):

For a long sleeve shirt: (measurement chart)

Part	Dimension
Collar	16”
Chest	48”
Center back length	31”
Sleeve length	34.5”
Drop shoulder	21” (yoke)
Arm hole depth (1/2)	0.5”
Cuff	9”
Pocket	6”*5.5”
Yoke is all time	4”

Back part:
The part of a garment, which covers the back part of human body.

Back part of shirt

Formula:

= [(31” + 2”) × (24” + 2” ) /36] / 44

= 0.541yds

Yoke:
A shaped piece fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the ―split yoke.

Yoke of shirt

Formula:

= [(21” + 4”) × (4”+ 1”) / 36] / 44

= 0.079yds

Front part:
The front part of a shirt.

Front part of shirt

Formula:

= ([{31”-1 ¼” + 1”} × {12” + 2 ½” }] 2” /36) / 44

= 0.562 yds

Sleeve:
The part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. Most sleeve lengths fall between 32 and 36 inches.

Sleeve

Formula:

=( [{34 ½” -11”} +1”] × {21” +1”} × 2 /36) / 44

= 0.68yds

Cuff:
A fold or band serving as a trimming or finish for the bottom of a sleeve. Some cuff styles include: French Cuffs and Barrel Cuffs.

Cuff

Formula:

= [(9” + 3”) × (2 ½” + ½” ) ×2 /36] / 44

= 0.05yds

Pocket:
A small bag like attachment forming part of a garment and used to carry small articles, as a flat pouch sewn inside a pair of pants or a piece of material sewn on its sides and bottom to the outside of a shirt.

Pocket

Formula:

= [(6” +2”) (5½” +1”) /36] / 44

= 0.032yds

Collar:
The part of a shirt that encompasses the neckline of thegarment, often so as to fold or roll over. Comes in various shapes, depending on the face shape and occasion.

Collar

Formula:

                                       = [(16” + 5”) × (2” +1”) × 4/36] / 44

                                       = 0.159yds

Total Consumption for one Garment:

= 0.541+0.079+0.562+0.68+0.05+0.159+0.032

= 2.100yds/ per garment

Per dz = 2.100 ×12

= 25.20/dz (ypd) + 5%(wastage)

= {25.20 ×5 / 100} + 25.20

= 1.26 + 25.20

=26.46yds

If the price for the fabric is $0.95 per yds. The cost for the garment will be

Cost per dozen (Fabric) = .95x 26.46

                                       = $ 25.14

Accessories: cost /dz                               = US $ 6.00 (1 piece all time $ .15)

CM /dz               = US $ 10.00
……………………………………………………………………………………………..
Subtotal    = US $ 41.14

Transport cost from factory to sea or airport (.5%) = US $ 0.20

Clearing and loading cost (2%)    = US $ 0.90

Overhead cost (.5%) = US$ 0.20
………………………………………………………………………………………………
Net cost price = US$ 42.44

Profit (10%)                                                         = US $ 4.2
………………………………………………………………………………………………
Net FOB price                                                     = US$ 46.64

Freight (4%)                                                         = US$ 2.00
……………………………………………………………………………………………..
Net C & F price                                                   = US$ 48.64

Insurance (1%)                                                     = US$ 0.48
…………………………………………………………………………………………….
Net CIF price                                                      = US $ 49.12

Silk Dyeing Process

Tuesday 25 February 2014

Silk Dyeing:

Silk being a natural polyamide or polypeptide fibre, its dyeing properties are very similar to those of other natural polypeptide fibre, wool as well as synthetic polyamide fiber, nylon. They can be dyed by similar methods. Very fine fibrillar structure and high orientation of fibre molecules are the two characteristic properties of silk which determine its dyeing behaviour.

Silk is comparatively easier to dye and is less sensitive to temperature. However, there is always a risk of damage of silk filaments during dyeing and the dyeing on the damaged material may apparently look like faulty dyeing.

Silk Dyeing Process

Since silk fiber has a slightly cationic character with the isoelectric point at about pH 5.0, . So silk is dyed using various dyes such as Acid dyes, metal-complex, reactive dyes etc. Acid dyes are more suitable for silk and wool. Dyeing and printing makes it possible to bring about the choicest colours and shades on silk leading to value addition of the silk materials. Silk offers a wide colouration possibility covering almost the entire spectrum of colours and hues due to its ready acceptability for a large range of dyestuffs.

For dyeing with milling, supermilling acid dyes and 1:2 metal-complex dye, the recipe (% o.w.m.) is:

x % dye
0.5-1.5% Lyogen MF or SU liquid
1-2% Imacol S liquid,
1-2 g/l sodium acetate and acetic acid for pH 4.5-7, depending on depth.

The chemicals are added in the bath at 20-30ºC and then the dissolved dyes are added slowly or in instalments. The temperature is raised slowly to the ambient temperature of 60-70ºC or 80-90ºC depending on the material and the dyeing is continued for 60 and 45 minutes for the respective temperature ranges.

For dyeing in soaping bath:

x% dye
1-2 g/l Marseilles soap
5-20% Glauber’s salt
pH 8.0-8.5

The wet fastness of silk dyed with acid and metal-complex dyes may be improved by aftertreating with a cationic product such as Sandofix WE (Clariant) or stronger fixing agents like Indosol E-50 or Lanasan MW (Clariant).

Silk may be dyed by pad-batch method with Drimalan F or Drimarene K dyes by padding the material at room temperature with a liquor containing:

x% dye
50-100 g/l urea (solubilising agent)
10-20 g/l sodium bicarbonate
0-2 g/l wetting agent, e.g. Sandozin AMP

The padded material is batched for 24 hours. Adequate colour yield and fixation may not be achieved with certain large-molecular dyes such as turquoise and green types.

Conclusion:
Both wool and silk are costly and delicate fibres. Under adverse conditions, they are damaged severely. High alkalinity and high temperature are harmful for these fibres. Apart from stiffening of fibres during dyeing, wool may be felted into an entangled mass, while silk filaments may be broken or chafed. Both the fibres are rich in active chemical groups. A number of dye-classes are available which can provide bright and deep shades of moderate to high fastness properties. As these materials are delicate and are handled very carefully, fastness requirements are not very high. The dyed material should possess satisfactory fastness meeting washing ISO washing fastness test no. 3 standard.

Antimicrobial Finishing of Cotton Fabric with Aloe Barbadensis

Monday 24 February 2014

ABSTRACT

Biotechnology is a frontier area in the field of science & technology having significant commercial applications in healthcare, agriculture, Textile & service sectors. There is a good deal of demand for the fabrics having functional/specialty finishes in general antimicrobial finishes in particular to protect human being against microbes. The application of antimicrobial textile finishes includes a wide range of textile products for medical, technical and apparel sectors. Recent developments on Aloe Vera have opened up new avenues in this area of research.

In the present study, cotton fabric is treated with Aloe Vera extract at various concentrations. A new approach to make textiles antimicrobial is incorporating the active principle of aloe gel extract with fabric. Initially, plant extracts are screened by qualitative antimicrobial tests for the presence of active principles. The extracts are applied on fabrics by simple exhaustion. The finished fabric samples have been tested for activity as per the AATCC (Agar Diffusion) method.

INTRODUCTION
Aloe Barbadensis Miller (Aloe Vera) plant is found to be more useful to the humankind because of the medicinal properties it possess. It is cultivated in the regions like India, South Africa, America, Mexico and other parts of the world. The aloe plant being a cactus plant, is about 95 % water, with an average pH of 4.5. The remaining solid material contains over 75 different ingredients including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, sugars, anthraquinones or phenolic compounds, lignin, saponins, sterols, amino acids and salicylic acid. The bitter yellow juice derived from Aloe Vera leaves are used to make Aloe juice and it can also be used as laxative. Aloe Vera plants are well known for their medicinal and healing properties from centuries. It is extensively used for wound healings, psoriasis, skin injury and diabetes.

Experimental Plan
The experimental plan involves the

Extraction of Aloe Vera gel
Finishing of cotton fabric with Aloe gel
Anti microbial testing by using Agar plate method

1.1 EXTRACTION PROCESS
Aloe Vera gel is extracted from the centre of the plant’s leaves, contains celluloid matter that gives it a semisolid consistency and makes it unsuitable for consumption unless it is purified. The process separates and removes aloine from the Aloe Vera gel. Aloine is a yellowish sap found in the plant’s leaves and it is an irritant and laxative substance. Sulphates are also extracted in the process because of the risk of allergic reactions to the substances. In the first instance each leaf is cleaned with water to remove the adhering dust, microbes, and insects if any. Then it is cleaned with water contains 5-10 ppm chlorine to assure that water is free from pathogen etc. The leaves are next cut transversally at the bottom.

1.1.1 EXTRACTION BY HAND

First, cut Aloe Vera leaf from the plant.
Washing the Aloe Vera leaf to remove the dirt.
Massaging the solid gel to Change into liquid gel using our hands.
Extracting the Aloe gel-using spoon from inner parts of the leaf.

1.1.2 EXTRACTION BY MACHINE

First, cut Aloe Vera leaf from the plant.
Washing the Aloe Vera leaf to remove the dirt.
Feeding the Aloe leaf in between the rollers.
Tightened the handle to decrease the gap between rollers for maximum extraction.
Rotating the handle to pass the leaves between the pressing rollers, this extracts the gel.
The extracted gel will be collected on the pan and then the gel will drop into the container through the out let.

2.1 MICROBIAL FINISHING OF COTTON FABRIC WITH ALOE GEL

The Aloe Vera finishing on cotton fabric in three different concentrations such as the ratio (aloe gel: water 60:40, 80:20 and 100%) are done in the first case 30 ml of aloe gel is used with 20 ml of water. In the second case about 40 ml of aloe gel is mixed with 10 ml of water In the third case about 50 ml of aloe gel is used in each case two samples are used and it is coated by using padding mangle and it is finally dried.

3.1 DETERMINATION OF ANTI MICROBIAL ACTIVITY BY USING AGAR PLATE METHOD

PROCEDURE

First wash 9 petri plates clearly and dry it.
Take 100ml of distilled water in a conical flask and add 3.8g of muller hinton agar and about 1g of agar-agar.
And prepare cotton beads with the help of broom stick.
Closely tight the conical flask with the help of cotton plug.
With the help of the pressure cooker the petri plates, conical flask are sterilized to kill any micro organisms present in it.
And keeping it for half an hour in the cooker it is placed under UV light.
The medium present in the conical flask is poured equally in the petri plates.
Out of 9 plates , 3 plates for 60:40 for treated fabric , 3 plates for 80:20 treated fabric and 3 plates for 100% treated fabric.
After the medium becomes solid the stephello caccus bacteria is applied on the surface of the medium.
From the first, three plates for 60:40% (one plate with only gel, second for treated fabric and gel , third is for treated fabric).
The second, three plates for 80:20% (one plate with only gel, second for treated fabric and gel , third is for treated fabric).
The third, three plates for 100% (one plate with only gel, second for treated fabric and gel, third is for treated fabric).
It is allowed for 24 hrs and the inhibition zone is measured.

1. INHIBITION ZONE FOR 60:40% TREATED FABRICS

60:40% TREATED FABRICS

2. INHIBITION ZONE FOR 80:20% TREATED FABRICS

80:20% TREATED FABRICS

3. INHIBITION ZONE FOR 100% TREATED FABRICS

100% TREATED FABRICS

4. ANTI MICROBIAL TEST- EXPERIMENTAL SET UP

Microbial test

ANTI MICROBIAL TEST RESULTS
	The Inhibition Zone Measured For 60:40% Treated Fabrics
	S. No	Plate 1	Plate 2	Plate 3
	S. No	Only Fabric	Fabric and gel	Only gel

	1	Fabric =3.1 cm	Fabric=3.1 cm	Gel=1.2 cm
			Gel=2.5 cm


	The Inhibition Zone Measured For 80:20% Treated Fabrics
	S. No	Plate 1	Plate 2	Plate 3
	S. No	Only Fabric	Fabric and gel	Only gel

	1	Fabric =4.4 cm	Fabric=4.5 cm	Gel=2.9 cm
			Gel=1.3 cm



	The Inhibition Zone Measured For 100% Treated Fabrics
	S. No	Plate 1	Plate 2	Plate 3
	S. No	Only Fabric	Fabric and gel	Only gel

	1	Fabric =1.9 cm	Fabric=3.8 cm	Gel=1.9 cm
			Gel=1.1 cm

CONCLUSION
From the above test results of Agar Diffusion Test for antimicrobial effectiveness against standard test cultures viz., E-Coli (gram negative), the zone of bacterial inhibition is indicated by a halo around the specimen. It is apparent that the activity of aloe gel treated samples is high against E-coli. It is attributed that bacterial inhibition is due to the slow release of active substances from the fabric surface. The anthraquinone present in the aloe absorb the fatty acids, which make the fabric free from microbe profilation. Because Aloe Vera has six antiseptic agents (Anthraquinone, sulphates, lupeol, salicylic acid, cinnamic acid, urea nitrogen and phenol) which act as a team to provide antimicrobial activity thus eliminating many internal and external infections. From our lab result aloe gel treated fabric has very high inhibition against E-coli microorganism.

REFERENCES

Klaus Schatz, “All Round Answer to Problem Microbes”, International Dyer, June 2001, p 17-19.
Davis RH, Leitner MG, Russo JM, Byrne ME. Wound healing. Oral and topical activity of aloe vera. Journal of the American Podiatric Medical Association 79:559-562, 1989.
Byrnec, Textile Institutes Dyeing and finishing Group conference, Nottingham, Nov.1995.
Odes H.S., Madar Z. A double-blind trial of a celandin, aloevera and psyllium laxative preparation in adult patients with constipation. Digestion 49:65-71, 1991.

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Dimensional Stability to Washing

Friday 28 February 2014

Working Process of Fabric Store Department in Apparel Industry

Thursday 27 February 2014

Costing of Long Sleeve Shirt (Woven)

Wednesday 26 February 2014

Silk Dyeing Process