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Importance of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector

Friday, 8 November 2013

Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector

The term Cost of Quality, refers to the costs associated with providing poor quality product or service.Quality is one of the least understood subjects in the apparel industry. The problem is that most of the apparel manufacturers, barring exceptions, do not realize the real cost they pay for ignoring quality. The amount of money going down the drain could be as high as 20 to 25% of the total manufacturing costs.This cost incurred due to poor quality is called Cost of Quality. A greater understanding of cost of quality can surely help reduce these costs and improve profitability of the operations.

Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector

Cost of Quality (COQ) in the apparel sector is still a widely understood misconception. The term often gets associated incorrectly with the price of creating quality merchandise. Actually, it is the other way round i.e. the amount of money incurred because the product was not manufactured right at the first time. Thus, the concept of quality costs in the garment industry is a means to quantify the total cost involved in quality-related efforts and deficiencies pertains to a manufactured apparel product.

Although it is not very easy to calculate COQ for any industry, research shows that the costs of poor quality can range from 15%-40% of business costs (e.g. rework, returns or complaints, reduced service levels, lost revenue). Most of the apparel units do not know what their quality costs are because they do not keep records on a daily basis. A large portion of resources is consumed in finding and correcting mistakes in the merchandise or related processes. Typically, the cost to eliminate a failure in the customer phase is five times greater than it is at the merchandise development or manufacturing phase.

Every time work is redone, the cost of quality increases. The obvious examples in the apparel sector include:

The reworking of a garment
The retesting of performance of apparel
The rebuilding of a garment machine
The correction of an apparel size specification sheet or change of care label
The reprocessing of garment to improve dimensional stability after wash or the replacement of a trim to fulfill the requirement of a customer or to meet safety issues.

In general, the cost of quality has two main components: the cost of good quality (or the cost of conformance) and the cost of poor quality.

The cost of poor quality affects internal and external costs resulting from failing to meet the requirements specified for an apparel product by the garment industry. On the other hand, the cost of good quality affects the cost for investing in the prevention of non conformance to requirements and the costs for appraising the apparel product for conformance to requirements.

Principles of Textile Quality Control | The Role of Quality Control

Wednesday, 6 November 2013

Introduction:

Principles of quality control in textile industry refer to the various concepts that make up a textile factory’s quality assurance program. Quality assurance programs provide managers and staff with the philosophy, structure and strategies necessary to improve service and product delivery. Many businesses follow established concepts as outlined by quality organizations, such as Six Sigma, Total Quality Management or International Organization for Standardization.

Textile Quality Control

Principles of Quality Control:
The essential requirements for producing a reliable product has been stated as follows:

A satisfactory design of product, thoroughly proved by adequate development testing in order to establish its reliability under the conditions to which it will be subjected in use. This is the Requisite Quality of the product.
A full specification of the requirements of this quality, which must be clearly understood by everyone concerned with the production of the constituent parts and of the complete end product.
Confirmation that the manufacturing processes are capable of meeting these requirements.
Full acceptance, by all those concerned with production, of the responsibility for meeting the standards set by the specification.
Checks on the product at every stage of manufacture to detect any departures from the specification.
Record essential information derived from these checks to provide accurate evidence for action.
Establishment of lines of communication, - i.e. Feedback to Production, - to ensure that this action is taken to effect the appropriate adjustments to materials, process and operatives to maintain future production within the specification.

An important feature to realise in the establishment of these principles is that, whilst tolerances and quality standards for goods going for despatch may often vary rapidly, depending on the urgency of call off, it is the duty of Quality Control in enacting items 4-7 above, to stabilise the tolerances and quality standards for goods in production, based on the recognised Requisite Quality. Only by production personnel knowing exactly what is expected can they respond to the requirements of Quality Control.

The Role of Quality Control:
In a total quality control scheme, the total involvement of all personnel is required as a philosophy.

The staff concerned in all duties must be given authority to carry out their functions. These functions should be defined.
Lines of communication and responsibility should be established to carry out an effective policy. Horizontal communication at all levels of personnel between Quality Control, Production and other departments is needed. Also there must be vertical lines, which follow the lines of responsibility and authority. In order to achieve this aim, the terms of reference under which staff work, must be established. This is, perhaps, best accomplished by job descriptions.
It is the job of Quality Control to establish the correct information concerning a quality situation, and present this clearly to their colleagues.
Persons outside Quality Control must be authorised to make the commercial decisions involved from a pre-established series of options, the consequences of each being fully understood.
Payment schemes should be re-examined where necessary to reward quality as well as production, in a balanced way, since both are commercially important.

Principles of Textile Manufacturing | Energy in Textile Production

Tuesday, 5 November 2013

Textile Manufacturing:

Textile manufacturing or production is a very complex process. The range of textile manufacturing is so long. It starts from fiber to finished products. It is based on the conversion of three types of fibre into yarn, then fabric, then textiles. These are then fabricated into clothes or other artifacts. Cotton remains the most important natural fiber, so is treated in depth. There are many variable processes available at the spinning and fabric-forming stages coupled with the complexities of the finishing and coloration processes to the production of a wide ranges of products. There remains a large industry that uses hand techniques to achieve the same results.

Principles of Textile Manufacturing:
The machinery needed to produce textiles cannot be simple. Few portable pieces of textile production equipment exist today, with the exception of hand production equipment such as knitting needles, embroidery frames, looms and drop spinning equipment still used by craft workers or indigenous people. As a direct consequence of this, in the vast majority of cases textile production equipment is massive, complex, expensive and difficult to use effectively in its aim of manipulating millions of tiny particles of flexible units at a speed high enough to satisfy the demand for its products. From the ecological perspective, this has two major consequences. First, textile production uses vast amounts of energy. The high demand and the large size of machinery forces the use of a lot of power in all parts of the world to keep the flow of materials going. Second, because of its complexity, the actual production of the machinery is environmentally very costly. The steel for stable framing, supports, protective covers, shafts, bearings and so on, has to be mined and refined. So too do the various non-ferrous metals used in reducing weight, improving electrical or corrosion resistance properties or providing more durable gears in the equipment. Plastic products used to enhance electrical, thermal or acoustic insulation have to be derived from oil, once it has been extracted from great depths below the surface of the ground or sea, by complex chemical reactions. All of these processes use energy, consume raw materials and produce waste matter as pollution discarded to the air, water or land once the intermediate product of the particular stage has been made.

Production in spinning mill

Energy in Textile Production:
As a result of this high environmental cost (and, even more of a spur, the cost of wasted energy), there have been many attempts to produce energy in less costly ways. The use of coal, oil, gas and electricity has been tried, in turn, over the 200 years or so that have elapsed since the Industrial Revolution first introduced the use of power in textile production.

Energy Categories of pollution production

Coal
Coal, the fuel that drove the Industrial Revolution, is rapidly disappearing from use for electricity generation in the developed nations. It creates too many problems, from those encountered during its extraction to those produced by its combustion. Miners working in risky underground locations are constantly in danger of mine collapse, fire, poisonous gases or lung problems and it is not unusual to read of major disasters in those places where coal faces are still worked. The residual piles of waste make a hideous mess of unsightly scars on the face of the Earth. Burning coal gives rise to smog or other atmospheric pollutants (* V-3, A-2, A-3) (see Table 1.1 for explanation of codes) and to health problems induced by breathing the toxic by-products resulting from the combustion of impurities in the coal. However, there are still coal-powered energy generation plants in operation in many parts of the world, to the detriment of our environment and the health of people living on the planet.

Oil
The combustion of oil is currently a popular form of energy production. Oil itself is cleaner-burning than coal, but can cause major problems for the environment in its production. The oil wells that proliferate in those parts of the world where ‘black gold’ is extracted fill the air with fumes (* A-2) from the burning oil that appears at the top of each well. The scars on the land left after sinking a well are as ugly (* V-1) as those left by coal mining, and the pipes must often be sunk to a greater depth than these mines in order to reach the oil site. Drilling operations also produce ecological disturbances, from the displacement of wildlife and the arrival of unsightly equipment to the burning of the fuel used to power the rigs. When the oil is moved, too, the spills (* W-3) that are so common in our modern world can each kill or maim literally thousands of living creatures.

Gas
For reasons of cleanliness and economy, many textile factories have adopted gas as the source of at least a part of their energy. Coal gas, the original fuel in this category, merely transferred the pollution from the point of use to the point of production, since it was manufactured by burning coal. It was also notorious for its toxic (* A-2) nature. More recently, coal gas has been replaced by natural gas, extracted from the ground along with oil, which is cleaner burning and not toxic. Unfortunately, gas of any kind cannot be carried around easily, so pipe lines or pressurised containers are needed to be able to make use of this fuel. It also has to be refined to some extent to keep it clean and has an odour that can be objectionable to some people. More to the point, even if it is completely pure, it still produces considerable amounts of carbon dioxide when it burns, adding a significant contribution to the global warming problem.

Electricity
All of this brings us to consider the most common source of energy in textile plants, electricity. At first glance, it is the ideal fuel. It is clean, convenient, versatile and has all those other attributes that we seek to make our lives easier. Examine the situation more closely, though, and a different perspective begins to emerge. All those benefits, it is true, are experienced by the user, but the way in which electricity is actually produced is far from ideal. It may be the result of burning coal or oil, with the drawbacks already mentioned. It can also be generated by burning all kinds of waste material, much of which is domestic pollution, with the consequent release into the atmosphere of carbon dioxide (* A-1) and even more undesirable substances created as by-products of the chemical combustion process (* A-2). In an attempt to give electricity generation a better image, modern production has relied heavily on hydroelectric generation techniques. These involve allowing a large quantity of water to flow from a higher to a lower level through a pipe in which turbines are caused to rotate by the rushing motion of the water. Apart from the need to produce the equipment, potentially an environmentally costly process in itself, there is often a need to create artificial height differentials so that the water has somewhere to flow from and to. This can mean diverting rivers or streams, building dams, flooding valleys and excavating tracts of land, ecologically expensive ways of providing a flow of water.

Nuclear Power
The proliferation of nuclear power plants over many parts of the world is an indication of how much promise this technique was once believed to have as an alternative means of producing energy. The unfortunate truth, of course, is that there are drawbacks to nuclear energy that were either not foreseen or were mistakenly assumed to be trivial.

The first of these to surface was the difficulty in disposing of spent fuel. Nuclear fuel rods contain highly concentrated radioactive elements. Their activity cannot just be turned off once the fuel is spent. At the end of its useful life in terms of an energy source, there is still a dangerously high level of radiation left in the atoms of the radioactive element. This is not enough to make it possible to take advantage by generating electricity, but certainly enough to kill off a few thousand people by radiation sickness if it were to be left lying about (* L-2).

The solutions adopted to overcome this drawback include reprocessing and storage, but these, especially the latter, remain problematic in view of the costs involved and the risk of leakage over the enormous storage time needed. Even if the material is encased in concrete or stainless steel containers and buried in deep water, cracking or corrosion can occur, so that the nuclear waste (* W-3) can spill out into the sea. From there, fish and other aquatic life can become contaminated, or air currents, water flow and earth tremors can distribute the harmful material around the surface of the planet. Sadly, the radioactivity is likely to last for a much longer time than the encasing materials, so the results of our careless discarding of radiation are being bequeathed for future generations to inherit.

A second side-effect has been brought to our attention in a dramatic way. Sellafield, Pickering and Chernobyl are names that conjure up images of nuclear power plants that went wrong. The latter, especially, taught us that one careless act at a nuclear plant can bring about a disaster capable of destroying the livelihood, and lives in many cases, of thousands or millions of people. The margin of error between nuclear fuel that reacts fast enough to create energy at a reasonable pace, and that reacting fast enough to blow its container apart, spreading devastation over the face of the earth, is not all that great.

Even when the fuel cells are controlled properly, there are still undesirable consequences of the process. Electricity generation takes place because the nuclear energy heats water to steam, which is then used to drive turbines. The spent water is hot and has to be discarded somewhere, often into the nearest river or lake water. Although it has cooled down sufficiently to avoid boiling any nearby fish in the water, it is still warm enough to make the area uninhabitable for them (* W-1). Other species, both fish and plant, can take over and change the balance of nature in the region downstream of the plant discharge site. The consequences for the environment and for the people living in the area are not yet understood, but the changes already occurring as a result of this nuclear warming give us cause to reflect that our energy comes at a tremendous cost to our planet’s natural health.

New Energy Sources:
One consequence arising from our realisation of the risks of nuclear mishap is the effort to find new ways to provide energy. Solar, tidal and wind energy have all been proposed as ways in which electrical energy can be produced. The hydrogen cell has been suggested as a means of powering devices in place of intermediate electricity generation. At first sight, again, all these methods of providing supposedly unlimited energy seem impressive. They are natural, reliable (with certain fairly obvious limitations, such as location or time of day) and, more importantly, free. There will almost certainly be unexpected drawbacks, as the lessons of history have shown. Before we find them, however, there are obvious ones that can be predicted even without experiencing them, all resulting from the nature of energy supply.

Energy production is complicated. The natural source has to be collected, harnessed, converted into electricity and distributed to its point of consumption. In all of these steps, equipment is essential. This equipment, like that used to make textiles, is generally large, heavy, complex and made of many different materials, making it environmentally costly to produce. Its manufacture and operation produce pollution, because waste material is generated in the former case and lubricants are needed in the latter, contaminating the air, water or land. It also has a relatively short life, because materials subjected to heat and mechanical action from sun, weathering, water or wind will eventually corrode or suffer fatigue fracture. As a safety precaution if for no other reason, they will have to be replaced by new equipment roughly every 20 to 30 years, thus producing a continual environmental cost that never ends.

More importantly, perhaps, is the mental attitude that will be engendered by the use of these ‘revolutionary’ energy sources. If energy is cheap (free?) and appears to be clean, then we should be able to use it in unrestricted amounts. We can waste it without any qualms of conscience and need not concern ourselves with the consequences of our actions, because neither the environment nor our pockets are being harmed in the process. It is only when we look at the entire cycle, from starting to make the power generation equipment to the end results of using it, that we can begin to realise how wrong our assumptions might be. The actual energy consumed in making or using a product is a minor fraction of its overall environmental impact, because the extraction of materials to manufacture the equipment designed to make the energy or to use it, and the pollution resulting from such extraction, must also be taken into account. Unlimited energy use means unlimited equipment production and hence unlimited ecological degradation.

So the textile industry, like most others, is unlikely to find any sop to its collective conscience with respect to power consumption in the foreseeable future. Unfortunately, this is not the only way in which the environment suffers for the sake of the industry. Every stage of manufacture, from fibre production or harvesting to shipping, inevitably involves damage (considerable in some cases) to the environment. The following chapters will summarise how this damage arises, looking briefly at its consequences and examining the ways in which it can be alleviated. In addition, the way in which textiles can themselves be harmed by the environment in the process of degradation will be considered.

Carrier Opportunity In Garments CAD in Bangladesh

Monday, 4 November 2013

OPPORTUNITY IN GARMENTS CAD

Tanima Rahman
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex)
Email: rtanima927@gmail.com

Since 1990, garments industry has been being considered as the chief source of income in the economic sector of Bangladesh. Although we have already passed the long journey of 23 years in garments sector, the use of technology is not worth-mentioning in this sector. According to engineers, the competency of Bangladesh textile sector is only 45-50% whereas the acknowledged competency of a general garment should be 65%. To overcome this lack, all what the textile sector needs are- helpful mentality of the garment owners, necessary training of the workers, as well as the usage of technology and advanced machineries like- Computer Aided Design (CAD), automatic marker making, automatic pattern cutter, automatic spreader, automatic fabric cutting machine and Enterprise Resource Planner (ERP) software.

Carrier Opportunity In Garments CAD in Bangladesh

According to BGMEA, there are 5400 garments here in Bangladesh. APPTEX sourcing gives the information that among the 5400 garments only 400 possess the above mentioned technologies. Rest 5000 garments lag behind in modern textile technology.

Computer Aided Design (CAD) is the use of computer systems to assist in the creation, modification, analysis or optimization of a design. CAD software is used to increase the productivity of the designer, improve the quality of design, improve communication through documentation and to create a database for manufacturing. It is such a technology that can reduce 5-25% wastage of finished fabric which is wholly considered as profit. CAD room not only reduces fabric wastage but also increases efficiency by reducing manpower. For example, if 6 people work manually in pattern and marker making, the whole work can be done by 2 people only using CAD software.

Modern thoughtful garments owners are not getting maximum output despite installing CAD room. This happens because of inexpert manpower, non-professional mentality and lack of proper knowledge to run CAD software. CAD room is a very sensitive section where extensively expert manager is required who can fully apply the CAD technology by his talent and skill and help the industry completely. There are many such industries which have bought CAD technology but have not been able to use it. So, freshers who are about to decide their engineering career, can have a look on CAD technology. There are some corporations and institutions which are providing CAD training.

It is quite difficult to train garments CAD properly. That is why it is unthinkable to train learners who does not have knowledge of pattern at all. Only Diploma and B.Sc textile engineers who are studying on garments can highly develop their efficiency participating in CAD training. They can achieve the ability of administrating a CAD room. And if the students who have already worked in the sample section or manual pattern design of any garments and also have enough computer knowledge, can undoubtedly achieve success in CAD section. It must be mentioned here that garments CAD section is such an important place where the participation of textile engineers is earnestly desired. According to the present garments business studies, within the upcoming year 2015 CAD section will need more than 10,000 CAD manager whose salary structure will be 50 thousands upto lakhs in Bangladeshi Tk.

Due to the shortage of required efficiency, our country is still falling back to China. Bangladesh will be able to successfully reign over the worldwide textile industries if political unrest, workers dissatisfaction, corruption can be uprooted.

An efficient CAD room can greatly contribute to the textile sector by developing the quality of products and using fabric with minimum wastage. By designing new apparels, Our textile mills can get more profitable order from the buyers.The overall management system of a garment industry can be easier and more arranged if CAD and other developed software are used in the management of confirmation process of various raw materials and samples in different stages.

What is Denim | Different Types of Denim

Sunday, 3 November 2013

What is Denim?

A popular conception of the etymology of the word denim is that it is a contraction or derivative of the French term, serge de Nîmes. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue “jeans,” though "jean" then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile; the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Gênes), from which the first denim trousers were made.

Denim is a type of cotton textile known for its use in blue jeans and other clothing. It uses a sturdy twill weave with a characteristic diagonal ribbing. Originally used for workmen’s clothes, denim is now ubiquitous and has even entered the world of high fashion. Nearly everyone has at least one garment made of this fabric in the closet these days.

Fashion is today incomplete without denim. Denim comes in all forms, looks and washes to match with every dress . It would be difficult to believe that the same denim was originally employed in clothing for the pants and overalls worn by miners on the west coast(US). A number of technological factors have contributed to making denim the fashion icon that it is today – including vast improvements in spinning, weaving, finishing etc.

Types of Denim
While the original denim was a 100% cotton serge material, you can now get it in a variety of materials, including blends that give you the same wonderful look of 100% cotton denim with some great additional features. Denim’s unique look comes from the rich indigo blue in one shade or another woven together with white threads to give the “depth” that people associate with denim. Today, some denims no longer have indigo, but other colors with the white opposing threads, producing denims in a rainbow of shades.

Types of Denim are given below:

Dry Denim
Selvage Denim
Stretch Denim
Poly Denim
Ramie Cotton Denim

a) Dry Denim
Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Most denim is washed after being crafted into an article of clothing in order to make it softer and to eliminate any shrinkage which could cause an item to not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being washed, nondry denim is sometimes artificially “distressed” to achieve a worn-in look. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to factory distressed denim. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim. To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for more than six months though it is not a necessity for fading. Predominantly found in premium denim lines, dry denim represents a small niche in the overall market.

Dry or raw denim

b) Selvage Denim
Selvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be located along the out seam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn. Although selvage denim is not completely synonymous with unwashed denim, the presence of selvage typically implies that the denim used is a higher quality. The word “selvage” comes from the phrase “selfedge” and denotes denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge can’t fray like lower grade denims that have separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming weaving process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts. Shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the two selvage edges, where the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually stitched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics.

Selvage denim

c) Stretch Denim
It is usually about 98% cotton and 2% Spandex for a bit of that forgiving stretch we all love. This blend gives you wonderful ease of movement and at the same time some support for those “trouble spots” you aren’t so fond of around the hips or thighs. Stretch denim jeans are one of the fastest growing segments of the women’s market for jeans manufacturers.

Stretch Denim

d) Poly Denim
It is the blends that appeal to those who like the look of denim but prefer polyester blends that wash and dry quickly and are lighter weight and a bit dressier. These usually appeal to a slightly older market, but are also finding favor for pantsuits, etc. when the look is meant to be “dressy but casual.”

Poly Denim

e) Ramie Cotton Denim
It is the blends that are found in a variety of combinations, with a wide price variance. Ramie is a plant fiber usually added because it reduces wrinkling and adds a silky luster to the fabric. It isn’t as strong as cotton, however, so it has to be blended with this stronger material in order to stand up as a denim material.

Ramie Cotton Denim

Inspection of Fabric | Major Faults/Defects in Fabric

Saturday, 2 November 2013

Inspection of Fabric:

Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, fabric weight, shrinkage, end to end or edge to edge shading, colour, hand feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also reduce rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.

Slub

Fabric Defect:
Fabric faults are responsible for major defects found by the garment industry. Due to the increasing demand for quality fabrics, high quality requirements are today greater since customer has become more aware of “Non-quality” problems.

Major Defects in Fabric are given below:

Askewed or Bias : Condition where filling yarns are not square with warp yarns on woven fabrics or where ctheirses are not square with wale lines on knits.

Back Fabric Seam Impression : Backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric being printed. If there is a joining seam in the backing fabric, an impression will result on printed fabric.

Barre : Occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.

Birdseye : Caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side. This term should not be confused with birdseye fabric which is in fact created intentionally.

Bowing : Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across fabric width: in knits the ctheirse lines lie in an arc across width of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid color fabrics.

Broken Color Pattern : Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame.

Color Contamination: A transfer of color from one fabric to another. All bleeding and color migration should be considered defective.

Color Contamination

Color Out : The result of color running low in reservoir on printing machine.

Color Smear : The result of color being smeared during printing.

Crease Mark : Differs from crease streak in that streak will probably appear for an entire roll. Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric folds in the finishing process. On napped fabric, final pressing may not be able to restore fabric or original condition. Often discoloration is a problem.

Crease Streak : Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.

Drop Stitches : Results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as holes or missing stitches.

Dye Streak In Printing : Results from a damaged doctor blade or a blade not cleaned properly. Usually a long streak until the operator notices the problem.

End Out : Occurs in Warp knit. Results from knitting machine continuing to run with missing end.

Hole : Caused by broken needle.

Jerk-in : Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage.

Knots : Caused by tying spools of yarn together.

Missing Yarn : Occurs in warp knit. Reuslts from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.

Mixed End (yarn) : Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric.

Mottled : Color applied unevenly during printing.

Needle Line : Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually a vertical line.

Open Reed : Results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on warp and shuttle.

Pin Holes : Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tenter frame.

Press-Off : Results when all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Many knitting needles are broken and have to be replaced when bad press-off occurs. Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of fabric. Printing Machine Stop : Dye or ink smudged along width of fabric as a result of the printing machine stopping.

Print Out of Repair : Caused by print rollers not being synchronized properly. This results in various colors of the design not being printed in the proper position. Puckered Selvage : Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or by uneven wetting out in sanforization process.

Runner : Caused by broken needle. The runner will appear as vertical line. Most machines have a stopping device to stop the machine when a needle breaks.

Sanforize Pucker : Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when. spread on cutting table. Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection machine with fabric under roller tension.

Scrimp : The result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through tenter frames.

Slub (woven fabric) : Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.

Slub (Knit fabric) : Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, or by ling getting onto yarn feeds.

Smash : Caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.

Snag: A pulled thread in the fabric. All snags should be considered defective

Snag

Soiled Filling or End : Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on packaged-dyed yarn.

Stop Mark : When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when the loom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.

Straying End : Warp Knit. Caused when an end of yarn breaks and the loose end strays and is knit irregularly into another area.

Thin Place: Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem.

Water Spots : Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before drying: color migrates leaving blotchy spots.

If anyone want to produce high quality garments, you need high quality piece goods. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. Apparel Search recommends a minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. Many factories attempt to inspect the fabric during the spreading, but this is probably unrealistic to depend on the spreader to control the fabric quality evaluation. The fabric should be inspected prior to the fabric reaching the cutting tables.

Problems Associated With Man-made Fibers and Their Methods of Rectification

Friday, 1 November 2013

Problems Associated With Man-Made Fibers and Their Methods of Rectification

Mufaddal Bagwala

Dept. of Textile Technology
Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technlogy and Science, Indore (M.P.), INDIA
Contact No. +919584406752

Email id : muffigenius_786@yahoo.com

1. Generation of Static Charge :
Man-Made Fibers (MMFs) have very high electrical resistance, due to which when they are rubbed against each other during processing in spinning machineries; a very high static charge is generated among fiber fleece which causes leakage of static charge in air and increases the possibilities of fire hazards in the spinning mill.

Man-made Fibers

Also generation of static charge causes difficulty in material handling: the filaments in a charged warp will blow out away from one another; there will be “ballooning” of a bundle of slivers; cloth will not fold down neatly upon itself when it comes off a finishing machine and so on.

Remedies:

Use of electrostatic eliminators in the Textile Industries.
Use of proper Antistatic agents during spinning and finishing treatments of fabrics.

2. Low Pilling Resistance :
MMFs are having high molecular weight and proneness to static generation due to which the bailing up of fiber ends on the surface of fabrics can be easily occurred. This gives unpleasant wearing comfort and also fabric lusture decreases.

Remedies:

Singeing of synthetic fabrics is done to reduce pilling. In this fabric is passed over a gas flame/ heated rollers to burn the protruding fibres.

3. Low Moisture Absorption :
MMFs have very low moisture regain due to which sweat and moisture locks between the body and the fabric giving wearing discomfort.

Remedies:

Blending with natural fibres like cotton.
Making fibres of Trilobal cross-section.

4. Low Air permeability :
Fabrics made up from MMFs are generally of high thread setts (no. of ends/ picks per inch) due to which air permeability and breathability of fabrics decreases which gives improper feel and heat retention during wearing.

Remedies:

Texturizing of yarns made from MMFs can increase the bulk of yarn increasing breathability of fabric.

5. High Lusture :
Due to more regular and circular cross-section of MMFs, the fibre reflects more light than natural fibres resulting in very high lusture of the fabric which is very unpleasant to see by others.

Remedies:

Suitable Delustering agents like Titanium oxide (TiO2) are used during spinning of MMFs.

6. Rough or Harsh Feel :
Synthetic fibres may give rough/ harsh feel, causing itches (reddening of skin) and making it unsuitable for fabrics like pyjamas, undergarments, etc.

Remedies:

Use of proper Softening finishes on the fabric.

7. Low Resistance to Soiling:
Fabrics made form MMFs can easily attract dirt and dust form environment due to static charge generation giving a fuzzy appearance to fabric.

Remedies:

Use of proper soil resistant finishes on the fabric.

8. Low Heat Retention :
Nylon is said to be cool in winter and warm in summer because fibre have low heat retention. The body heat can not be stored between body and fabric due to absence of air pockets in the fabric.

Remedies:

Fibres are made with hollow Cross-Section for better heat retention.

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